Baking – My dough is cracking (not crumbling) and more water does not help

bakingdoughpie

I am following this Serious Eats pie crust recipe. It's the second time already where I struggle with the dough folding stage. The dough is too crumbly when I take it out of the processor. When I (gradually) add water it stops being crumbly but then it gets too cracky. You can't really move it around or roll it.

Adding flour or water does not improve the situation.

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Best Answer

The serious eats article that accompanies this recipe does a good job of explaining what you are trying to accomplish.

You are trying to have wheat gluten that is interspersed with pockets of fat. The fat pockets are tender, the gluten is flaky. Perfect balance.

They dough that you have doesn't have any gluten development and is basically shortbread. If you press it into a pie crust it will be tender and flavorful but not flaky. It's still delicious so don't throw it out- it just won't be perfect.

There are three ways that you could have too little gluten:

  • Flour with too little protein
    The recipe calls for all purpose flour. It needs to have some gluten but not as much as bread flour.
  • Too much mixing in the second stage
    This recipe calls for some of the flour to be completely blended with the fat and then flour added in a second stage and only just cut in. If this second addition of flour is too thoroughly blended into the fat you get shortbread.
  • Not enough resting time
    The recipe calls for resting the dough for at least a few hours and up to a few days. This is important. Only some of the flour in the dough has access to water to form gluten. The dough needs to be given time to rest to allow the flour to hydrate.

I love this pie crust recipe. It turns the traditional method on its head and it works very well. It has fewer tricky points for failure than the traditional method but it still helps to know what you are doing.
I highly recommend reading the article that accompanies the recipe.
http://sweets.seriouseats.com/2011/07/the-food-lab-the-science-of-pie-how-to-make-pie-crust-easy-recipe.html