As a quick clarification, honing is going edge first, stropping is going heel first.
Honing will help to straighten the edge. Stropping will help to polish the edge (after honing).
In every other video I've seen (and on the Wüsthof website) they say to hone the blade. Stropping is more of a finishing method, so I would say to hone the blade first, and, if desired, strop the blade after.
The tools you're looking for are:
Money and a phonebook.
Call a professional, and pay him to do the work.
It's safe to say that after finding 9 posts covering how to sharpen knives, which all state more or less the same "..yes you can do it yourself, it's not too difficult, but it does require practice...", there is no magic tool. Yes you can do it yourself. It will take practice. You will get better. But, as with all things, it comes at a price: Time.
I'm not sharpening my knives with Japanese water stones (other people may have other preferred sharpening methods) out of sheer enjoyment. I'm sharpening them with Waterstones because there is no magical gadget that gets it done at a fraction of the time and effort, and meets my requirements.
I had to learn it, it took time, not even a ridiculous amount of time, and sometimes I still screw up. And if I screwed up, and I screwed up badly, I use my next favorite tool:
Money and a phonebook.
Best Answer
It looks to me like a three--fold problem
The angle is constantly changing.
The action is bi-directional. You should only push.
You need to push the knife at about 45° to the direction of travel so you offer up the entire blade in each sweep, rather than just one end of it at a time.
oh, & a late 4… I don't think 1000 grit is going to be coarse enough to get the edge back on it once you've badly messed it up. I think you'll need 400 or so to get it back in the ballpark before refining it.
Having been rubbish myself at this for years, I'd honestly either give up now & get a decent electric, or at least try an angled clamp at the correct angle for a euro knife, 20°.
I also really really would advise against practising on a good knife.
Some images of blade edge profiles.
These are all "correct" profiles for different usages… however, let's just look at the top row first.
You really want one of the compound bevels [I think centre is Japanese, right is European]. To achieve these by hand you need some serious skill & practise. The best you'll really get is going to be closer to the V, if you're good &/or have a clamp system.
What you probably have right now is something closer to the convex on the 2nd row. In the right circumstances this could be a good thing [bushcraft or an axe-head]. In the hands of someone like me, it will barely cut cheese, let alone a soft tomato.
There is a lot of remedial work to be done to get back to one of the top row profiles.