The higher the temperature, the harder the caramel. That is basically the whole story. So I think what is happening to you is that the caramel in the middle is still going up in temperature due to residual heat, while the stuff at the sides cools down quickly because it can vent heat through the pan to the outside world. Have you checked the calibration on your thermometer? In any case, I think the things you can try are (1) cook to a slightly lower final temperature (back down a couple degrees at a time) and (2) set the pan over a tray of ice to cool it more evenly. Also, be sure to do a really good job of that final stir before pouring into the tray.
It looks like you are trying to make sugar fondant. I often make a batch to use as seed crystals in my holiday fudge preparation.
Sugar Fondant
Sugar fondant is a crystalline sugar confection where the crystals are microscopic and suspended in a saturated solution of sugar. Its texture is very short, and the mouth-feel is creamy.
Creating sugar fondant is relatively easy. In brief, boil a syrup to softball stage and cool it undisturbed until around 50C followed by rapid agitation until the fondant is too difficult to work.
Now for some specifics.
Multiphase Solutions
One of the interesting features of boiling syrups is the temperature is intrinsically linked to the composition of the syrup. Unlike how boiling water transitions to steam at a constant temperature of 100C, syrups boil at a range of 110C to well over 200C. As water evaporates from the boiling syrup, the composition changes to contain a higher concentration of sugar and the boiling temperature rises.
Be warned. You are boiling a super-saturated solution. Any crystallized sugar introduced to the solution will not dissolve and it will seed crystallization during the cooling stages.
- Avoid stirring once the sugar has fully dissolved prior to boiling. Use a brush moistened with hot water to wipe away any crystallized sugar on the side of the pot during cooking.
- If you are adding any glucose to the syrup, add it after the syrup has come to boil to ensure that the other sugars have fully dissolved.
Candy Stages
The desired properties of a candy are principally derived from the candy stage to which you cook your syrup. The sugars remain mostly unchanged chemically (though disaccharides may break down into glucose and fructose) regardless of the candy stage or temperature.
When making sugar fondant, you are aiming for the softball stage which is 110C to 120C. You can take a dollop of hot syrup and drop it into cold water to check the stage in absence of a good thermometer or if altitude / humidity are affecting your candy. So long as you do not scorch the sugar, you can add water and lower the temperature to restore the syrup to the desired candy stage.
Crystallization
The most important part of a sugar fondant is the formation of microscopic crystals. The syrup must cool to 50C before agitation to create the desired crystal size and distribution.
One difficulty that I have found is that I cannot let the syrup cool within the bowl of my stand mixer - the syrup cools unevenly which typically induces crystal growth. This is especially difficult for fondant, as it must be worked for a significant amount of time to crystallize.
Depending on your desired purpose for the fondant, you may let the syrup cool to a lower temperature or agitate less to keep the texture longer or more pliable. If you agitate at a higher temperature, the syrup will form crystals that grow tremendously during agitation and make the fondant grainy or crunchy.
But Why Is It Crunchy?
Chances are, you have undissolved sugar in the syrup.
- Be sure all of the sugar dissolves before you add any glucose to your syrup.
- Don't stir once it begins to boil.
Your syrup might be at a higher candy stage. If you somehow managed to reach soft crack or hard crack, this might prevent the syrup from forming any crystals and resulting in an amorphous sugar glass.
Best Answer
It's a somewhat long shot, but if I were you, I'd give it a try again, using another form of vanilla (maybe precook a pod in the milk, then scrape out the seeds and add them), no corn syrup at all, and pay attention to using sweet butter, not cultured butter.
Fudge is all about forming the right size crystals in the supersaturated sugar solution. From your description, no crystals form at all. This could happen if you inadverently invert your sugar (= split it into glucose and fructose). In home cooking, this is usually done on purpose with acid when making non-crystalized candy. So, just in case that either your butter or your vanilla extract contains some acid, I'd use the versions guaranteed not to have any, vanilla pods and sweet butter. It's not sure that they are doing something wrong, because butter in the supermarket is rarely cultured, and vanilla extract doesn't contain acid normally, but it's better to make sure.
On an industrial level, invert sugar is created with enzymes. While corn syrup starts out as starch and not sucrose, I can imagine their enzymes being able to split the fructose off the sucrose in your sugar too. I don't know what they do to the syrup exactly, and maybe the heat will deactivate the enzymes anyway, but I think it is worth a try to make it with pure sugar, so there is no source for enzymes to land in your fudge and invert it.
If none of these is the culprit, then I'm afraid the next likely explanation is the mechanics of the beating. But maybe it's not about the hand vs. mixer beating as such. It's possible that you've been stopping too early, or that changing the attachment used for beating will change the outcome.