Some female quick disconnects latch the ring back as you describe. I don't expect you have an issue with the female quick disconnect on the compressor.
I suspect that while your male fitting appears to be the right "size", it is of an incompatible type. There are many different types that appear the same when held at arms length. See this answer for a primer on the various types of quick-connects.
Test the compressor
Your compressor is going to look something like this
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/VwAwl.jpg)
To test the windings, you'll first have to remove the "box" where the wires connect.
WARNING: There's likely a capacitor in here. Take care not to let the capacitor discharge into you.
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/pfyVQ.png)
Once you've go that out of the way, you should see three pins/terminals. They'll typically be arranged in a triangular pattern.
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/0yTJu.png)
One terminal will be start, one will be run, and the other will be common. To determine if the windings are still good, you'll simply test the resistance between each terminal.
- Set your multimeter to read ohms.
- Touch one probe to each of the bottom pins.
- Write down the reading.
- Touch one probe to the lower left pin, and the other to the upper pin.
- Write down the reading.
- Touch one probe to the lower right pin, and the other to the upper pin.
- Write down the reading.
NOTE: Your readings may vary.
You should end up with something like this.
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/qLcu1.png)
This tells me that the top pin is common, the lower left is start, and the lower right is run. It also tells me the compressor is still good. The reading from start, to run should always be the largest reading. The readings between start and common, and run and common should total up to the reading from start to run.
If the values are way off, or you get infinite resistance between the pins, replace the compressor.
If the compressor checks out, you'll want to make sure it's getting power.
Check the power to the compressor
After reassembling the compressor, plug the refrigerator back in. Set the refrigerator to a setting that should cause the compressor to come on. Using a multimeter set to volts AC (VAC), carefully probe the two wires connected to the compressor. You should measure ~120 volts.
If you get the proper reading, you'll likely have to replace the relay and/or capacitor. If you don't get ~120 V, the problem is in the control circuitry.
Mechanical failure
If everything checks out, there's still the possibility that the compressor is seized. In which case, you'll have to replace the compressor.
Best Answer
Given that you are likely talking about a residential air conditioning compressor with a single phase motor, that sound would be indicative of a failed Starting Capacitor in the compressor motor, so the motor is not able to start. Many of those are hermetically sealed compressors, so the capacitor is separately mounted somewhere away from the motor itself, then there is a "Potential Relay" that takes it off-line once the motor has started (as opposed to a centrifugal switch found on standard single phase motors). So if the capacitor is OK, it might also be a failed potential relay. Either way it's not something the average homeowner can fix, it takes some specialized knowledge of what to look for and how to troubleshoot it. I suggest calling an HVAC service tech.