I'm in the process of remodeling a bedroom in my house and will be replacing all the drywall. I'm contemplating the idea of replacing the aluminum wire in the room with copper. My question is can I replace the aluminum wire just in that room or does a run have to be all the same wire from the main to the end of the run. For example I was thinking I would find where the aluminum comes into the room and at that first outlet pigtail to copper wire, likely use AlumiConn, and use copper for the rest of the outlets. Same for he recessed lightning – replace from the switch up to the lights. Possible?
Aluminum to Copper run
aluminumcopper
Related Solutions
I would probably still use wood for the beam across the bed opening because it is so much easier to work with. The picture you posted shows a good 6 to 7 inches of space from the platform surface down to the top of the bed opening. This should be more than enough room for beams that can carry the weight.
If your current plan is only allowing for a 3" beam dimension then you should consider the following options.
- Arrange for a bed and mattress that are lower so that you can simplify the platform supports by allowing for 5" or 6" beams.
- Try trussing the narrow beams along their length similar to the picture below. Trussing like this would be similar to the way that wooden step ladder treads are trussed.
Splicing devices don't have a box fill allowance, even though they may be chunky!
NEC 314.16(B) does not include wire-splicing or wire-connecting devices in its calculations; however, your concern is not misplaced, as the AlumiConn is indeed a chunky critter compared to a regular wirenut. Fortunately, I doubt most folks will complain if you whack a surface raceway extension (starter) box onto the existing receptacle box to provide extra space, though. If you have metal boxes, you can also use a standard single gang extension box or mud ring, but nonmetallic box extensions do not appear to be able to be stood off from the underlying wall surface, which is unfortunate when box volume is the reason for the extension.
Related Topic
- Plumbing – Need to cut copper pipe after removing push pull valve and replacing with sharkbite
- Water – cold water too hot in AZ—worth it to insulate attic copper
- Plumbing – Modern half-bath copper DWV configuration
- Electrical – Confused about CO/ALR devices versus AlumiConn and Copalum
- How would you repair this copper drain pipe, and how much pipe would you replace
- Wiring – Why does light switch not use ground wires inside of box
- Soldering copper pigtails to aluminum wire
- Copper or Aluminum flashing
Best Answer
Possible and definitely use AlumiConn and follow the installation instructions. I got a torque screwdriver to pigtail my house (wiha 7.5 to 20 in.lb), but there are alternate instructions that don't specify torque.
You could just pigtail and not replace the aluminum conductor, but you would still want to pigtail the receptacles. The connections at the switches are reportedly less prone to failure, but I do those too and use the two-port Alumiconn connectors. I also use the 2-port on terminal receptacles.
When I am torquing an Alumiconn to 15 in.lb I find it helpful to put the connector in a Crescent wrench. It's easier and safer. I put the copper pigtails in ahead of time so I don't have to change the setting on the screwdriver while installing.
If I am approaching box fill, I use a twist on connector for the grounds, but I put on Penetrox A joint compound. Thirty years ago I pigtailed the receptacles and switches with twist on connectors and NoAlOx (an inferior antioxidant to Penetrox A) and I have had zero failures, but I am slowly going back and re-pigtailing with Alumiconn connectors. I think these are the only DIY connectors for connecting #12 or #10 aluminum to copper in branch circuits which are recommended by Jesse Aronstein http://www.kinginnovation.com/pdfs/alumiconn-docs.pdf