table
I am looking at getting a butcher block table top to construct a desk. The maker offers four standard thicknesses: 1.5", 1.75", 2.25", and 3".
I currently use a 1.5" oak butcher block desk table and it is very rigid, I can stand on it (200 pounds) and it does not bend.
So, why would I need a table any thicker than this? Is it purely for looks, or is there some practical reason?
Per the question, I used Minwax until it faded, but it was still quite obvious and visible (close to the last pic in the question post).
Then, taking a page from the "mayo and ashes" tip, I mixed 1-part mayonnaise (Hellman's) to 1-part baking soda (not baking powder; I used Arm & Hammer brand) as a cigarette ashes replacement. I rubbed the mixture along the grain directions using a paper towel and some pressure.
The stain faded, then vanished. The resulting wood is smooth, and considering the baking soda is abrasive, appears unscratched. After wiping off the mayo mix, my table may smell like a turkey sandwich, but it's beautiful again.
Now all I have to do is polish off all the Minwax buildup from my earlier cleaning attempts.
I would never have thought of going with the grain had I not spoken to the lady from Restore and Adore, and had the baking soda idea fell through, I would have gone with the "last resort" 4 0 steel wool with a lot of Minwax applied.
Pic of the repair:
Short answer, vertical and strong. I have an old Saginaw Expand-o-Matic that opens from 24" to 90" and is designed to only use the end legs, no middle support. Not sure where you could find this hardware today though.
You want the sliders to be vertical because the majority of the stress will be vertical stress of the table and contents weight. It also helps load balance because you'll need more than one slider to more than double your expansion and positioned vertically, your contact points are all on the same level.
An alternative is leafed ends, so the base/original table would remain the same but you could add on leaf ends, you can either have them hinged and permanently attached or be small stand alone tables that are add-ons. You'd need to make clean edges on the original table or route out the reverse of the rounded corners into the leaves/add-ons.
Best Answer
Appearance and longevity. You can plane down the 3" one quite a few times, but it seems unlikely you'd be using cleavers on your desk. You might want to weigh the price difference between 6/4 and 7/4 against the ability to sand stains and dings out of the thicker one though. That extra quarter inch may add decades of life to the desk in the long run.