I installed a backup sump pump following the instructions. The backup pump will turn on but does not eject any water from the pit, the water only swirls around. The pipes aren't clogged: the main pump works great and it is new pipe on the backup. I tried drilling a hole in the pipe above the backup and water will shoot out the hole when the pump turns on but not up and out through the main discharge pipe. There is a check valve on the main pipe, but is working as the main pump does empty the pit. My only guess is that the backup line hits the main line at a 45 degree angle and the water coming up doesn't have enough force to open the check valve. Again I installed it as indicated in the instructions. The backup is battery operated and both the pump and battery are brand new. Anyone have any ideas?
Back up sump pump not working
sump-pump
Related Solutions
As kkeilman points out, your pump is fully submersible, so that part should be no problem.
You can easily just piggy-back a float switch like this one on your existing pump. It has a special plug that you plug the existing sump pump into (no wiring necessary), and this one in particular handles up to 1/2 HP, which is more than enough for your 0.3 HP Zoeller.
The nice thing about these tether floats is you can adjust the heights depending on where you attach it, and how much tether you give it. Just be sure to test it manually moving up and down to be sure it's at the right heights, and it's not going to get hung up on anything (causing it to either stay on, or not turn on when needed). I highly recommend you secure all the wires going into the pit with zip ties or electrical tape to be sure they're not going to fall down in the future.
You can leave the existing float working, which is fine - it will act as an extra safety to shut it off if the pit is dry, but also be sure this one doesn't get hung up - because both floats will have to be "on" to make the pump turn on -- if either is off, the pump is off.
If you don't want to use the existing float, there may be a way to bypass it internally by rewiring the pump, or you can simply zip tie it "up" so it is in the on position all the time.
If you have the clearance, you could put an air admittance valve at the high point of the drain. I'm not sure of the code on that, but since this isn't for a drain into the waste stack, it might be permitted. I would be reluctant to put it in a blind location though.
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Best Answer
Letter I in that diagram, the primary pump check valve, is your problem. It is either missing or not operating correctly. The water being discharged by the backup pump is draining out the inlet of the primary pump.
Also, the primary pump check valve needs to located below the wye fitting and above the primary pump like it is in the diagram. If it is above the wye fitting, then it won't work.