Please see image attached.
I am looking to make a notch in a 11 1/2 LVL beam spanning 17ft across my basement.
Basement – LVL Floor Joist Notch / Reinforcement Question
basement
Related Solutions
You have a few options.
Frame around the beam.
This is probably the easiest method, though it changes the dimensions of the room slightly. Simply build your wall either in front of, or behind the beam. Attach the top plate to the joists.
Weld studs to the beam
You could weld threaded, or non-threaded rods (studs) to the bottom of the beam. Then drill holes in the top plate to align with the rods (studs). If you used threaded rods, use a washer and nut to attach the top plate.
Nuts and Bolts
Drill holes through the top plate and the beam flange, then use nuts and bolts to attach the top plate.
Powder actuated fasteners
You could use powder-actuated fasteners to attach the top plate to the beam.
WARNING: For any method that alters the beam in any way, consult an engineer for fastener schedule, size, and placement.
ok guys, here's what I did. Of the highs and low spots, I found that there were a couple dips that were significant, by the door and by the stairs/bedroom. I filled both of these in with SLC (self level concrete) and the results were pretty good.
Suggestions:
- follow the directions exactly, do not over water, it will be too runny.. I used 5.5L/bag and it worked out somewhat perfect.. I had a couple of dry clumps that some how got missed. I had to scoop them up with the trowel and re-mix them with some water. I would recommend that you get a stir stick and check the mix before dumping to make sure that none was missed. I was using a paint type mixer and I think that an egg beater type would have been better.
- get the straightest 1x4x8 and uses a screed. This is how id did SLC by the back door. The screed will slide along the high points and will push the material along, creating a perfect amount of SLC. Touch ups or moving smaller amounts of SLC with a trowel. I then feathered in the edges using a clean push brush.
- Find some soccer cleats as it will displace the SLC way less than walking with a boot. You won't even see your foot prints after walking through.
- don't freak out about this. If I can do it anyone can.
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Best Answer
The engineered lumber should be marked with the name of its manufacturer. Each manufacturer publishes information about the size and positioning of cutouts that are allowed on a "prescriptive" basis. If you can't find a cutout or notch description in those tables then you'd need a structural engineer to design something specific for you.
The steel I beam approach you proposed may work, but it may not be necessary to go that far. It may be possible to simply reinforce the joist that is to be notched, for example by attaching a plywood or steel sheet gusset to the sides of the joist extending some distance beyond the notch.
An alternative is to cut out the marked part of the joist completely. A beam may be installed crosswise between the joists to the left and the right of the marked joist so that those two carry the load of the cut joist. Doing this is likely to require those two joists to be reinforced in some way, such as "sistering" them by installing a second joist alongside the existing joists. The "sister" might be dimensional lumber, another LVL of same or different depth, etc.
A structural engineer could help you figure the loads carried by the floor above and choose the "best" approach based on material cost, practicality of carrying materials into the space and installing them, etc.