If you are butting a rim joist into the beam, you can frame like the first photo with the beam held back 1-1/2" and the first rim joist extending to the end of the post.
Then, in the corner of the second (inner) rim joist and the beam, attach some Simpson A35's. 1 should do, but if you have enough height you could install 2. Each A35 can transfer nearly 600lb of gravity load into the beam. If this truly is a rim joist, then 1,200lb of (2) A35's + the shear on the first rim should be more than enough.
Then use (6+) 3-1/2" quality construction screws (vs cheap deck screws) end screwed through the outer rim into the end of the beam to tie the rim and the beam together.
I would not recommend a Simpson ECC style column cap; these are only needed in extreme (for DIYers) load cases.
Plenty of 1950s/60s gluelam post and beam that are attached with a straight steel heavy strap going from the post to the beam, with bolts through to one on the other side. No need for an angle-bracket, per se. They could also be lag bolted in, but through-bolting with machine bolts and nuts is what I've seen on those buildings. Then again, a stock nailplate truss connector would probably also work (if you need anything - might depend on your earthquake exposure, but then you get back to "what did the engineer specify?")
Best Answer
Some are welded, by bending those "ears" or "tabs" over, others are bolted with clamps using those tabs.
Check what was specified with the architect / design engineer.
And, YES, it is required, otherwise it could be knocked over...