Controlling water infiltration after it comes through the wall is only advised if that is your only course of action. ALWAYS stop it before it comes in.
If water comes in from the outside, it will bring in silt and possibly other things may come in as well depending on how big the holes are.
The foam you added may have slowed it down, but it will not seal the hole if there is dirt on the surface or even moisture. from the water coming through.
As mentioned already, concrete is a sponge, and like a sponge, water will release if there is a large enough concentration of it. The best course of action is to apply a membrane on the outside, complete, continuous from the ground level to the footing to seal the wall to the footing. Basements usually have this, how well it is done is always a consideration. Holes in the waterproofing is the biggest issue, whether it is from a lazy installer or bumping into with hard items like shovels and such during the construction phase.
You can install a drain (weeping) tile, and there should be one already at the footing on the outside, and perhaps there is one on the inside too, under the slab. It does not matter all that much if it is there and you still have a leak. The grade or slab needs to pitch away from the house so the rain does not concentrate against the wall, The water that is left at the wall after the majority has run away from the wall can be handled by the membrane on the wall, whether it is liquid applied or a roll of material. Most are liquid applied. This membrane, along with other things like fiberboard or dimple mat as I call it, expedite the water's fall to the footing where the presumed drain tile is.
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Rain can run down the inside of the chimney, in my last house with 2 fireplaces 1 on each floor the stack was quite large and I ended up adding a rain shield 18" above the opening to reduce the amount of water coming in. Also if the flashing on the outside of the stack has not been maintained water can run down the outside.