I'm working with some CPVC for hot water and now I need to make some adjust for better placement. With PVC I would just heat a bit to remove any possible stress or to put it into a more adequate position, can the same be done with CPVC?
Bend CPVC like I do with PVC (heat gun)
pipepvc
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I wouldn't use the PVC pipe at all.
Here are some things to think about...
1) Splitting the PVC pipe in half will involve two saw kerfs that will make the re-mated halves not restore to original size.
2) PVC cement will not work well in trying to re-join the two pipe halves. That type of cement is meant to be used in tight lap type joints; not in rough butt type joints.
3) If you have to use the expanding foam you really should place the pipe parts in place and secured first and then inject the foam through one or more small holes through the pipe wall.
Overall I would suggest that you reconcept your approach to this and keep the lower portion of the walls as is but convert then to knee walls with height of maybe 40 inches. Temporarily support the beam within the current opening space. Then cut out the existing studs to produce knee wall framework. The top of this knee wall gets fitted with a good double 2x4 header. Trim the top of the knee wall with a flat trim board that is wider than the drywall on each side by some 1/2 to 3/4" and trim around the skirt of the board with a nice molding. Then set a partial turned 4x4 post on top the flat board and use it to support the beam. Finish out the top of the openings over to the side walls down to the bottom of the beam, band with drywall and finish. I think this would give you the better look and still open up the space perception. The shorter 4x4 type turned posts are much more reasonable in cost.
Excuse my somewhat less than elegant cut/paste/smear work with paint program but here is the general idea of what I am suggesting.
That level of glop is not normal.
Some things to check:
- Is the pipe end deburred? A file plus sandpaper to finish works well.
- Are the pipe & fittings dry? Water can do strange things to PVC cement.
- Be firm, but don't push too hard, and don't over rotate. 1/8 of a rotation is enough.
- Work quickly, but do let any residual drips in the primer evaporate before moving on to glue.
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Best Answer
Not that I know of, since you're dealing with heat & pressure & really don't want to screw around with the already somewhat marginal properties of the piping.
Try it at your own peril, but I'd suggest throwing in a 45 or less fitting to accomplish the slight offset. Two 45's (or less) might be needed so you can twist them for the perfect dry-fit & marking before gluing.