hosewashing-machine
I'm finding that major appliance retailers and manufacturers insist that a new washer requires new fill hoses. Used fill hoses cannot be reused, it is claimed.
Of course I have to wonder about this since (a) many (most?) units do not come with the required hoses and (b) the folks dispensing this advice would happily sell me new hoses. If a new washer requires new hoses, what is the justification for not including them as a matter of course?
Can old fill hoses be reused? If not, why not?
I don't know of any specific schedule, but I can recommend several "best practices":
Failed "fail proof" hose at the coupling:
You could also buy special high quality ($50) hoses - which frankly if you have a finished basement or your laundry is on an upper floor, is a sound investment in damage prevention.
Perhaps your BEST prevention, however, is an automatic washing machine shut off valve:
This device has an attached sensor (pic 2) which you set on the floor by your washing machine. In the event of a leaky washer OR failed hose, it senses the water and shuts off the flow at the source. For an under $200 investment, if you're protecting a $20,000 basement or worse, a whole house, not installing this once you know of it's existence would be downright foolish.
I don't quite follow your description, the standpipe configuration might be part of the problem. The gurgling toilet indicates a venting problem, I don't think it would contribute to overflowing, but it is a problem. As mentioned, a photo or diagram is needed for better assessment. My intent is to describe a proper washer installation and address how the height plays into it.
There are all sorts of variations for pipe configurations, this one is very typical. The washer drain ties into the 4" horizontal pipe with a vertical 4x4x2 LTTY (long turn tee-wye). It can be installed flat to gain some vertical, at the cost of an extra ell that introduces a potential clog point.
From the LTTY is a vertical 2" pipe as short as possible before connecting to a 2" sanitary tee. A 2" vertical pipe continues up to tie into the venting system. The vent could be reduced to 1.5" if need be. The side inlet of the santee takes a 2" horizontal (2% slope actually) trap arm. There is a length limit, but it's rather long, it's best to keep it rather short. The trap arm connects to a 2" trap assembly. The trap inlet accepts a 2" vertical stand pipe.
The stand pipe must be a minimum 18" high, straight up, no bends. You cannot connect a washer discharge directly to a closed drain system. There must be an overflow provision such as an open stand pipe. I prefer to see about a 24" stand pipe, but 18" is a code requirement.
This gives you about a 24-30 inch tall stand pipe/trap assembly on top of the 48" height of the main drain, so a total 6-6.5 feet off the floor. Washers have a limit of how high they can pump discharge water. The installation instructions should tell you this somewhere. If not, you may need to contact the manufacturer. If your washer can pump up to the top of the stand pipe while sitting on the floor, you're all set. If not, you will need a platform that raises the washer to within the allowable discharge height.
If you still get overflowing with a proper standpipe-trap configuration, then the main line remains obstructed somewhere.
Best Answer
"what is the justification for not including them as a matter of course?"
"Can old fill hoses be reused? If not, why not?"
The downside is that, unless you turn your water supply valves off every time you leave your house, an old hose that fails can easily cause catastrophic flooding of your home. You need to make your decision based on a risk assessment putting the cost of new high quality hoses against the chances of and cost of a hose failure.
I bought brand new supply valves with quick 1/4 turn ball-valve construction to facilitate easy shut-off, and the best quality braided stainless hoses; and I shut off the valves whenever I will be gone for more than a day, because I do not want to come home to a flooded house.