No. Well maybe it can, but it shouldn't.

RTFM

If you check the documentation that came with the washer, it should contain the maximum drain height. Generally, the maximum height is around 39" (99 cm).

Newer washers often have a drain hose permanently attached, which is designed to make drain installation fool proof. The supplied drain hose shows you exactly how high the washer can discharge.

Raise the washer

Depending on the machine, and whether or not you're already using a pedestal. You may be able to raise the whole machine up, to accomplish what you want. The maximum height is not height above sea level, it's height above the bottom of the washer. So if it's possible to do so, raising the machine up a few inches (safely) might be the solution.

If it's a front loading washer; and you're not already using a pedestal, you may be able to purchase (or build) a pedestal to raise the machine up. If not, you may want to think about building a raised floor to raise the whole area up.

Keep it up to code

International Residential Code (IRC) says.

International Residential Code (IRC) 2012

Chapter 27 - Plumbing Fixtures

SECTION P2706 WASTE RECEPTORS

P2706.2 Standpipes. Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches (457 mm) and a maximum of 42 inches (1067 mm) above the trap weir. Access shall be provided to all standpipe traps and drains for rodding.

Which means if you connect the drain hose to a standpipe, the standpipe has to be at least 18" above the point at which water will begin to flow from the trap. So your 43" height, could quickly become 61".

If you're in the coastal area, the attic air during the summer will be hot and humid, so it won't be nearly as effective at picking up moisture in the drier. Outside air won't be much better.

The drier doesn't operate many hours per week, so in the long run, you aren't wasting much conditioned interior air; plus the conditioned air will dry the clothes faster.

I wouldn't mess with trying to feed outside or attic air to the drier. Unless you add vents that seal when air is not being drawn, you will introduce additional load on your heating and AC that will affect your energy use year around.

If you live in a desert area, the outside air could be better than conditioned air for drying. However, that would be worse of an HVAC load without keeping it sealed out when the drier is not in use. I suspect that the cost of trying to use desert air for drying would far exceed the value of shorter drying time, or at best, would be such a small benefit that it wouldn't be worth the cost and effort.

A couple of solutions that don't require major work or piping in external air:

• Just run the drier with the closet door open, and close the door when it is not in use. That doesn't require any changes.

• If you want to be able to completely close the closet door when the drier is running, it doesn't take much gap around the perimeter of a door to provide adequate air. There is typically a decent gap at floor level. Look at your other interior room doors. If there isn't a similar gap on the closet, you may be able to raise the doors a hair, or trim the bottom edge. If the gap is similar, it will be adequate and not noticeable.