dishwasherhosewasher
I have a small apartment kitchen, and would like to add a small washing machine/dryer combo
Taps on the kitchen sink are 1/2 inlet and 3/8 outlet. Drain on the sink is 1 1/2" feeding into 2" plus below the p-trap.
1) Can I use a standard dishwasher hose connected to an add-a-tee off the 3/8ths outlet under the sink?
2) Can I use a dishwasher drain hose from the washer, and dump it in the stack under the sink?
Will these work, even if they aren't up to code?
Where does the hose in that image currently go? Is that an existing dishwasher inlet or does it go somewhere else like a laundry closet or to a sprayer/sink?
Also, we need to know what type of fitting the dishwasher inlet will be. Most that I know of are threaded flex hose.
The part you show does not look like what you want, if you just want to screw it into your existing fitting. This part designed to be inserted into the middle of an ordinary copper pipe using compression fittings that join to an unthreaded copper or nylon pipe end, providing a ball-valve connection in the middle of that pipe suitable for a washing machine. You CAN use this, especially since you have a shutoff valve (which appears to have been installed in much the same way), but you must permanently alter your plumbing by cutting some part of the pipe in half to put this fitting in.
What you probably want is a male-male-female NPT equal tee or Y fitting, allowing you to screw in a second hose exactly like the one you have now. Something like this (from the same site) may fit the bill:
If you can find it in nickel-steel, it'll last a little longer, but this plastic fitting should be perfectly fine. Simple, near tool-less (just a pair of slip-joint pliers or a small strap wrench to tighten down the hoses), and undoable.
I have had my Bosch dishwasher for about a year using the same setup you contemplate, so I'm familiar with the exact drain connector you have on the dishwasher hose. On mine, there was something of a taper between the 1/2 and 3/4 section and being rather flexible rubber, and I had no difficulty stretching the 1/2 section of the fitting to fit on the 5/8 gap fitting. I then tightened down the hose clamp with a hex bit on my cordless driver. The clamp was tight enough to somewhat compress a groove into the rubber, and I tugged on the thing as hard as I could. It isn't coming off IMHO. I'm at work, but can send a picture later if you need.
I understand you are worried somewhat about the quality of the connection. You could get a 1/2 to 5/8 adapter like this:
But that would entail 3 hose clamps and a section of 5/8 ID hose to connect between the adapter and air gap. That seems like more points of failure. At any rate, I think you already have what you need to get this working.
Best Answer
I'm no plumber, but I've had my share of washing machine lint clogs. A washing machine puts out a LOT of water at one time, and that water comes with plenty of lint.
A typical setup (but not the only way to do it) is to have the output from the washing machine sit in a laundry tub. That (a) provides a buffer of sorts - if the main drain can't take the water that fast the tub can hold some of it as it drains out and (b) because the end of the hose is accessible you can attach a disposable metal mesh lint trap. I don't recommend trying the same thing with the kitchen sink - you will likely end up with the sink overflowing if the drain isn't 100% clear at the time, as most sinks are far smaller than a laundry tub. On the other hand, if you connect the hose directly into the drain line (with an appropriate trap AFTER the connection), you will be putting lint directly into the same section of pipe that is routinely getting grease and food from the sink.
I actually don't think the size of the drain hose itself will be a problem - my dishwasher drain hoses are similar size to my washing machine drain hose (though different materials) - the issues are the total volume of water in a very short amount of time and potential lint accumulation.