I plan to install an undermount sink in a new butch block counter top that is 1 1/8" thick. In order to cut the sink hole, could I simply attach the undermount sink to the counter in the correct position, then use a router with a bottom bearing flush trim bit (1 1/4" carbide) to cut the sink, with the bearing running along the inside of the attached sink? I have read about the method of creating a template out of plywood, but this method seems like it would be easier and more accurate. Is there something I am not thinking about?
Can you use the actual sink to route an undermount sink hole in a butcher block counter
kitchen-counterssinkhole
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Silestone is natural quartz aggregate, held together by a polymer binder. I believe it's something like 85% quartz. You'll need a diamond coated bit like this one; it's a tiny hole saw where the rim is covered in diamonds:
It's a bit tricky to start, you need to hold the drill at a slight angle so that only one side of the circumference is grinding, and then as you start to develop a crescent-shaped groove you gradually move your drill perpendicular and continue with the rest of the hole. If you don't do this the thing will walk all over the place since it has no positive center like a regular hole saw.
For drilling upside down you'll want a spray bottle with water to keep the surface as wet as possible. That Hitachi bit I linked to has a spiral groove going in the opposite direction of a normal drill bit, which serves to draw water into the hole, which will help you when drilling upside down.
Obviously you want to be careful not to drill too far and pop out of the top of your nice counters.
For fastening the dishwasher you'll need a plastic anchor into which to run your screws, and I've found this type works great. In a solid material the plastic will extrude around the screw threads and hold really tightly. They do sell them at my Lowe's but I can't find them on their website. The 3/16" size is probably what you need for your dishwasher, and the diamond bit I linked to above is also 3/16". Good luck!
Ok Aaron, you will need to remove as much of the old caulk using a sharp putty knife. If you are careful you will not scratch the block or tile, however it can be tricky. Alternately, a rigid plastic scraper or caulk removal tool (cheap at HI stores) can be used to assure no scratching or gouging. The next step is to run a line of 3M delicate surface painter's tape in a very straight line down the counter top and along the back splash exactly where you want the caulk to end. Select a 100% silicone caulking of the color you want. Apply an even bead of caulk to the seam, smooth it with your finger or a plastic tool tapering the edge thinly at the edge of the tape. Work quickly, do not let the caulking start to set up. As soon as you are happy with the bead's smoothness, remove the tape immediately. Let the caulk set up and cure for 24 hours before exposing it to water. Good luck.
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Best Answer
Putting a bearing against a sink surface seems to be looking for trouble. The slightest resistance in the bearing could tear up the finish of the sink, whether it is porcelain, fireclay, steel or resin.
I think it's worth the trouble to make a plywood template, unless you are in the sink business and have spare units to burn.