Bleeding radiators is quite simple, and can usually be done by homeowners. All that's required is a radiator key, a towel and/or bowl, and a bit of time.
Why Bleed Radiators
Even with closed systems, air can still find its way into the system. When it does, it will collect at the highest points available (the top of radiators). Trapped air can cause radiators to heat less effectively, so removing it will help reduce your heating costs.
How to Bleed Radiators
To bleed the radiator, you'll need a special tool called a "radiator key". A radiator key is a small key like object that will fit on the bleed valve of the radiators, and is used to open/closed the valve.
The first step in bleeding the radiators, is to turn off the system. Next, you'll have to locate the bleed valve on each radiator. This valve should be near the top of the radiator, and will look something like this.
Insert the key into the valve, and hold the towel and/or bowl below the valve. Slowly turn the key anticlockwise, until you hear a hissing noise or water starts to drip from the valve. Once water starts to drip, close the valve by turning the key clockwise.
WARNING: Never open the bleed valve too fast, too far, or completely remove the valve stem.
CAUTION: Water dripping from bleed valve may be hot. Contact with aforementioned water could lead to injury.
Repeat this procedure for each radiator in the system.
Repressurize the System
After bleeding the radiators (or even before bleeding the radiators), you may notice the pressure in the system is too low. The typical rule of thumb is that for a 2 story home, the pressure should be between 12-15 lbs. or 25 - 30 ft. If you notice the pressure is a bit low, you'll want to top the system off.
There should be a supply pipe connected to the boiler, with a valve that is fully closed. This pipe should come from the cold water supply system of the house. Once you've located the supply and valve. Open the valve slowly, keeping an eye on the gauges, close the valve again when the gauge reaches the optimal level.
I will give this a try.
Physics says that water can not make steam, at sea level pressure under 212 degrees F.
It is also why steam pipes and automobile systems are under pressure, you can hold more heat, when water is under pressure and not have it boil. Pressure cookers cook food faster for the same reason.
The only way to make steam, from water, at 180 F, is to do it under partial vacuum.
To get water to boil at 180 F, you need to reduce the air pressure to about 7.5 psi.
7.5 psi is a column of water about 15' tall.
If a boiler tank, had a 15' tall pipe, filled with water, and caught between a drain trap and the return to the boiler, it would make steam at 180 F.
I have a physics background, and I am not a stationary engineer, well not a train engineer either, to be honest.
Hopefully someone who has actually worked on a boiler system can take this and run with it.
- Note, never pay someone to work on a boiler that thinks the temperature of the water should be below the boiling point of water.
You are better off hiring a competent plumber to work on a storage water heater. You get the same result with fewer parts, faster, and for less money.
Best Answer
If this is a hydronic heating system using wax zone valves, which act both as water valves and as thermostat, these sometimes fail in the "on" position. If that is the case, disconnect one of the wires from the switch.
That said, as @Ecnerwal states, there is a serious issue with wiring if the boiler still fires with the safety switch "off". Is there perhaps another shut-off switch??