For the automatic humidistat, aka what you have

Since you're using the automatic humidity controller, this gets somewhat...interesting. Wire up the R, C, W, and Gf terminals as directed to the furnace terminal block -- you will need to pull the G wire from the thermostat off the terminal block and send it to the G terminal on the auto-humidistat as well. Then, jumper the R terminal from the furnace to one H terminal on the humidity controller, and connect the humidifier valve wires to the other H and the C terminal on the auto-humidistat.

If you were using the manual humidistat

There is a yellow wire going from pin 10 of the 12 pin control board connector to the blower pressure switch i.e. the yellow wire that goes into the pin on that connector closest to the terminal block -- you'll need to tap into that wire and send it off to the humidistat as well as to the blower pressure switch. Your other wire from the humidistat goes to one terminal of the water valve, with the other terminal of the water valve getting spliced into the blue C (Common) wire from the transformer.

In general, a wire tap like that would be done by cutting the wire, crimping a female tab terminal (faston, quick-connect) on one end and a male tab terminal on the other, and then using a female/male tab terminal tap connector to make the 3-way connection. (So called "vampire tap" terminals aren't as reliable as properly made crimps.)

The outdoor unit's contactor is welded shut, most likely

My first port of call at this point would be to check the contactor in the outdoor unit that turns power to the compressor on and off based on the Y signal from the thermostat -- if the contacts on that are welded shut, then the air conditioner will run constantly no matter what the thermostat and control board have to say on the matter.