We have a 12×14 dining room and are looking to add a shallow 6"h x 15"w tray border around the outside. One of the longer sides will not hit any ceiling joists, so I will be using toggle bolts to keep my framing attached to the ceiling on that side. In order to keep the weight down for the framing and rock, I was thinking about using 2x2s instead of 2x4s. Being that the 1/2" sheetrock pieces will be fairly small in dimension does anyone see any safey issues with that idea? All other pieces will hit studs & joists. No issues expected with moisture, etc and not planning to run any electrical through the tray.
Ceiling – How to frame a ceiling tray in the dining room
ceilingframing
Related Solutions
If the ceiling is not structural and is only there to hold up the drywall, you can get away with using 2x4s. 2x4s at 16" on center should easily span 11', while supporting only drywall.
Basically your going to support the ceiling rafters with the walls, so you end up with a structure like this crude MS Paint image.
The basic idea is to build a room inside your room.
If you are planning on using recessed lighting or HVAC ducting in the space, you may want to go with 2x6s for the joists (to allow enough room to install everything).
If the ceiling joists are going to be load bearing (especially if they are supporting the parking surface of your garage), you'll want to consult a structural engineer (and you'll likely end up using I-beams tied into the concrete walls as joists).
If you header is a 2x4, just run it in the joist bay for that wall.
Related Topic
- Ceiling – How to add joists to an existing trussed ceiling
- Ceiling – Bumped into a joist while drilling for a toggle bolt
- Concrete – Toggle Bolts in Concrete Ceiling
- Ceiling – Increase size of ceiling joist compromise roof strength
- Ceiling – Reinforce ceiling joist for ceiling storage
- Ceiling – remove ceiling joists without risking the integrity of the roof system
- Ceiling – how to hang 200lb chandelier
- Use steel framing in a shower enclosure
Best Answer
I think you're OK, though it's not ideal. The devil is in the details. I'm assuming the ceiling is also 1/2" sheetrock, and that it's properly attached. If the first ceiling joist is close to the tray edge, rather than 9" away, that would be better but not a deal breaker.
Focus on a good wall connection, such that the tray practically cantilevers from the wall, the toggles becoming more of a backup. Then don't skimp on the toggles. A single one may not hold much, but the strength of several actually amounts to something.
That said, this probably does not meet code, as you are supporting an architectural element with a non-structural material. But I don't see it as a life/safety hazard.