The short answer is that it depends on the internal circuitry of the remote. I have a Harbor Breeze fan/light combo that came with a wireless remote, and I know that there are protective circuits inside the receiver that detect if there are non-incandescent bulbs in the system (e.g. CFLs/LEDs, which can cause power spikes, don't work with simple dimmer circuits, etc), or if the wiring is connected incorrectly. This protects against certain short-circuits and against overloading the wiring. From what I know, the basic design assumes you will either use it for a fan only, or a fan with light.
If this is the case, you can't use the remote to control just a light. The receiver will detect that the motor circuit is discontinuous and shut off to protect itself. However, the receiver may not be that "smart", so as long as the Motor Hot wire is capped off to avoid arcing, shorting and electrical fires, the circuit through the Light Hot and Motor/Common Neutral wires should still work. You just have to connect the receiver unit properly; the wires coming out of one side of the receiver should go to the J-box, matching white to white and red or black to red or black, and the wires in the other side should go to the light, again matching white to white and black or red to blue.
If this doesn't work, you're probably going to have to put the light on a wall dimmer. There are models of wall switch that are also receivers for remote controls. Lutron's "Maestro" system uses one wired wall switch, to which a number of wireless controls can be linked and communicate with it via RF. This allows for, for instance, 3-way switching where there used to be none, without having to fish wire. In your case, the Pico remote control works with a Maestro switch and allows similar functionality to what you want with the Harbor Breeze control; a remote you can take in hand and control the lights from anywhere in range of the wall switch. You can get this system at a Home Depot or online. Downside? It's toward the cutting edge of home lighting controls, and so is pretty high-end; the switch and remote control combo is about $80.
You might look into ceiling fans with DC motors. While I have not seen a manufacturer talk about quietness, some reviews I've read talk about quietness. The biggest attraction to DC motors is the efficiency of the motors, getting more air movement with less power.
My suggestion would be find a local fan / light showroom that has some of these on display that you can try.
Also, fan speed controls have a lot to do with the fan noise. A fully variable wallbox style speed control can cause motor noise, but the fan speed controls that have preset "clicks" that you feel when adjusting are made for quiet operation. I don't know if the remote set you got was matched by the manufacturer or just off the shelf, but that could make a difference.
You also have to remember that some people leave their fans on for a "white noise" effect, which helps them (me) sleep. My wife insists that we keep a floor fan on for the noise. Because of this, when it comes to trouble shooting a loud motor then you might not get as much help as you think you would get.
Again, try a fan specialty shop. The salespeople will know which are quieter and should know more about them than a box store.
Best Answer
I had a similar issue with a Hunter brand ceiling fan. Shortly after I replaced the wall switch that physically fell apart and caused some arcing on the line, the fan would run and then stop. The amount of time it ran before stopping grew shorter & shorter, until it just wouldn't run at all.
Assuming there is a light on the remote (transmitter) that blinks when you hit a key, there is nothing wrong with the remote. Luckily it was within the one-year warranty for electronic parts and I still had my receipt. So, when I called the manufacturer (not retailer), they sent me a new speed controller for free. It would be worth it to purchase the new controller if it is not within warranty, my would have been $50 and looks just like yours.