I am currently insulating a new room in my house. I am planning to put up a drop ceiling. I have insulated between my roof trusses. Do I need anything else between my drop ceiling and attic space other than insulation. I thought of putting either drywall or plywood but not sure if I need it or not.
Ceiling – Should I install drywall or plywood above a drop ceiling to increase the insulation value
ceilinginsulation
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What is the thickness of that second layer of drywall in your great room? Chances are it's very thin, which you could hide by simply fanning out your joint compound to make a "ramp" 1 1/2 to 2 feet wide where the kitchen meets the great room. Nobody would ever be able to see the difference. Another option is to put a fake beam between the two rooms - basically a thin piece of wood trim that looks like a fancy support beam partially buried in the ceiling. Again, nobody would ever notice the difference in the ceiling heights between the two rooms.
There is a VERY easy way to get rid of the popcorn ceiling. Get a paint roller with a fairly thick roller sleeve and put it on a long handle. Dip the roller into a bucket of water, and then "paint" the popcorn ceiling with the water. Use a bit of pressure to actually get the water into the popcorn, but don't overdo it and soak your drywall underneath. Let that soak in for a minute or two, and then the popcorn will come right off. Every time I paint a popcorn ceiling, half the popcorn wants to fall off with the roller, so I tried simply rolling it with water when I wanted to remove the popcorn one time, and it worked great.
What they are suggesting is done in metal buildings in the USA, the insulation is wrapped in a type of plastic sheeting on all sides, it is made that way. It is also in large rolls and very wide, maybe 3-4ft?
My biggest concern would be the distortion of the metal when it comes to removing it. If the roof is attached with screws, you have a small chance of salvaging the roofing. If the roof is fastened with nails, the metal will surely be distorted. The fasteners to reattach the roofing, which should be screws with neoprene washers, rely on a flat surface, if it is a newer system. The refastening may not take well if care is not taken on the removal. Of all the fasteners in any given roof it will only take one to create leak, with the insulation in place and it's plastic layer, it would be hard to tell where a leak may really be or if any evidence is visible until it is too late. I refer to wet, or rotted framing after a time.
If it is the older system where the nails are driven through the standing rib, and the nail has a lead coating to conform and seal the hole from the nail,, DO NOT let them remove it unless a new roof goes back down. It may be better to insulate from the underside, even if it may be finished.
This is a sample of what I was going to suggest, It may cost more overall, but it is the metal roof and insulation combined. It will not compress like the fiberglass will and give a higher R rating
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Best Answer
If your in a cold weather area a layer of poly creates a vapor barrier, otherwise Drywall and plywood have no insulation value. Notes for the insulation between roof trusses:
4" cavity space: R-13 or R-15 batts, 6" cavity space: R-19 or R-21 batts, if it's a wide open attic, use an R-30 or R-38 batt.