Ceiling / Wall mounted heaters recomendations

I understand your dilemma. I have a few comments about using heated water from a wood stove to circulate in a radiator. The concept seems simple, however using a circulator pump also requires a control panel of some sort, unless you intend to let it run continuously and manually switch it on and off. This task is normally controlled by a thermostat and control board. The pumps usually run on low voltage supplied through the control board. Using line voltage (240VAC in most of Europe) and an in line full voltage thermostat would be very dangerous. Another concern would be protecting the circulating water loop from an over pressure condition. Heating water above the boiling point would be a major hazard. You would need a pressure relief valve and a way to shunt water away from the heat exchanger if the wood fire overheats the water. Another limiting factor would be that this heat source would only be available when the wood stove was burning. Perhaps you might consider an infrared quartz space heater instead of the oil filled radiator. These heaters are extremely efficient, cost a fraction to run compared to traditional electric heaters.They come in a variety of styles and shapes. The cost of these heaters start around $80.00 USD to a high of $500.00 USD depending on how large and fancy a unit you select. They do not require special wiring and have a fairly low electrical draw plugged into any standard outlet. Infrared heaters work by heating objects via infrared energy as opposed to heating and distributing air. The heat in the space is usually very even and comfortable. Check out what is available in your area.

Stop the leaks

You're paying good money to heat/cool the air, keep it in your house. Check the exterior for obvious leaks such as air blowing through a door gap or windows that don't close all the way. The less you absolutely need to use that area the easier the solution is. If it is a hole in the wall fill it with some insulation batting, if the window is cockeyed and not sealing cover the gap then seal the window with shrink film for a temporary solution while you're getting the rest of the house under control.

After you have the air contained make sure its going to the right places. Check as much duct work as you're able to get to for leaks, small gaps in joints or corners can leak air that will short cut the system and waste your money. Aluminum tape is recommended here but just simple duct tape would work as well. Might not hurt to throw out the money to have a furnace guy come out to check over the system and make sure the controls are all working properly and you're getting as much air through the vents as you're supposed to.

Insulate

Go through and prioritize what you can afford now and what you need to put off and how much they will effect your heat loss. Your priority #1 better be that sliding glass door, They have a very large surface area with less insulation than walls (in most cases, tbd in yours) and with one pane of a double pane broken its lost a tremendous amount of its insulating factor.

If you do not want to insulate the bottom of your roof in the attic then by all means wrap insulation around all the duct work which is in the attic, I would recommend both. Adding additional cellulose insulation to the attic would not hurt but will likely have less of a benefit as most of the other things listed.

Replacement windows will help but there are uglier things which can be done in the mean time which are much cheaper that could help get the costs and comfort under control such as storm windows.