concretedrill
I need to drill a 16mm (5/8") hole in a concrete wall. All I have is a 20V DeWALT DCD795 drill (which has a drill driver and hammer feature) and the appropriate drill bit.
Someone suggested to me this won't be sufficient and I risk breaking my drill if I try. Renting gear isn't an option where I am (Thailand), and I'd rather not buy more gear.
Any comments, thoughts or suggestions are welcome!
As a remodeling contractor, I've owned both hammer drills and rotary hammers. The rotary hammers are frequently rated for drilling capacity by the diameter hole it can drill. Most homeowner chores can be accomplished by 7/8 to 1" capacity. You can drill larger holes, but at reduced speed.
There are 3 classes of SDS drills. The widest range of bits are in the "SDS plus" sizes. SDS max would be overkill.
I have and use an SDS-to-1/2 chuck adapter, which is rated for concrete drilling. I use it for the smaller sjzes only.
I would recommend getting a 3 function rotary hammer; - Drill only - Hammer only (useful with SDS chisels) and - Hammer + drill (my most used setting)
Really old question, but here goes.
Inside the drill, this is the gear that will make the Hammer action (an un-related example)
As the drill turns, the ratchet action of caused from the teeth sliding against each other creates the hammer action you feel in Impact Drills.
The Switch to activate this is obviously failing in your drill.
The Complicated image below describes your problem.
The Drills drive shaft (#3) in the pic, either makes heavy contact with the ratchet (2) or not. depending on its vertical position (how left or right the shaft sits on in the casing) That position is determined by the shifter knob (point #1 /A) as you turn that knob, the plastic resses is either deep or shallow and makes the shaft either engage the impact driver or not.
There is a spring (at point B) which applies constant pressure on the shaft, making it always want to be in a certain state (either hammer or not depending on drill)
Essentially, you need to push the drive shaft (3) out of hammer drill.. check if the knob (A) is somehow broken, or if the Spring (B) has collapsed and not giving any push.
Alternatively, if you are feeling brave, you could try to remove one of the sides of the impact driver, thereby disabling the hammer action completely.
Best Answer
I am not sure why they would tell you that it may ruin your drill. It might not be the most powerful hammer drill but it should be up for the job if you take the time to do it in stages.
If you cannot rent and you do not want to buy a more robust hammer drill you’re only left with one option.
I would start with a 3/16 inch masonry bit and see how that goes. Then move up to 1/4 inch or 3/8 then to 1/2 inch and finally 5/8.
It will be easier for the drill to start with a small drill bit, once you have that hole cleared then successfully moving up in size will be less stress on the drill. If it struggles with any of those stages then you may have to do smaller incremental stages.