concretestairs
I want to replace some concrete blocks with proper stairs in front of my house. They are wobbly and dangerous. Attached is a photo of what is currently there.
I have been unable to find anything about building a form of this size for stairs. I found lots of stairs tutorials, but they are all using actual stair forms.
Anybody have a good tutorial with visuals for doing this properly?!
There will be a total of 4 steps, roughly 5ft x 3ft each.
This was a project I did earlier in 2012. We wanted to install central air conditioning for our new furnace and there was no better place to put the outside unit than on this side of the house. Unfortunately, the pad there was a wedge shape. So I made a form and turned it into a rectangle. Couple hours of work including a trip to Home Depot for concrete.
Determine the depth of your pad - For mine, I used 2x6's to build my form. You should use a material that will determine your depth, ie: a 2x4 for a depth of 3.5 inches
Use screws to connect the wood together - this will make disassembly of the form easier when you're finished.
Mix the concrete per the recommendations on the bag.
If you're concerned about strength, you can use rebar rods or wire mesh inside the pour. Pour half the depth, lay the mesh or rebar, pour the rest.
Make sure the concrete is level or sloped if need be. A 2x4 can be used to do this or a wooden level. Make sure to wash the level when you're done.
Make sure to tamp the concrete down into the corners of the form and into the field of the form. You don't want any air pockets. Use a trowel to help move the concrete around. Use the edge of the trowel to help remove air pockets.
You want a nice flat surface. Use the level or 2x4 that spans from edge to edge to "screed" the surface flat. Use a flat trowel to raise a bit of water to the surface to make it nice and clean.
Let the concrete set per the instructions on the bag - if the weather is colder, give it another day or 2.
Once everything is dry, remove the forms.
One solution, if you have some space to work with at the foot of the concrete steps, is to add some new steps constructed with pressure treated lumber. Here is an example to convey the idea.
The unevenly spaced original steps are replaced with a new set that are evenly spaced from the ground level up to the top. In this example I show the use of 2x12 lumber to create both the steps and the stringers under the steps. You could place the stingers to the outside edges of the existing concrete structure or notch them as necessary to fit over the nose of the existing concrete steps.
Not shown in this concept drawing is a header that would be secured between the top ends of the stringers under the new step. The header would be flat against the riser of the existing top step. Fasteners through this into the existing concrete would secure the new timber structure.
Another advantage of this concept is that many old style steps do not have adequate landing area at the top to make it easy to negotiate opening a outward swinging screen/storm door. The added width of the top step can help with this problem.
Best Answer
You need to construct shuttering (usually timber) to hold the concrete in position while it cures. You'd usually have the shutter that forms the face of the stair "open" to allow concrete under to the lower step.
( This shows the principal )
If you use a stiff mix of concrete, it won't flow under the shutter forming the face of the stairs, but you will have to work harder to compact it to get a good finish. If you do find the occasional air void when you remove the shutter, you can fill in with a cement mix.