You probably (and hopefully) have a large amount of sand/grout stuck in the P trap. If so your best bet would be to remove the P trap and give it a good thorough cleaning (out in the yard, with a hose).
(While the trap is off you'll be able to inspect the tailpiece and the drain line as it goes into the wall and clean those up too if necessary.)
If you can't detach your P trap you have a few options:
- If your trap has a cleanout nut, open it up and run water through until gunk stops coming out (you can employ your wire hanger here too, to "encourage" it).
(My experience is most older pipes that have such a cleanout nut are so old that the thing is frozen and can't be opened without breaking the pipe, so be careful if you try this)
- Remove as much of the tailpiece as you can and clean out the trap with a shop-vac and/or spoon/wire/etc.
- Work a snake down the drain and whip it around like crazy while running LOTS of water
(In the hope that you'll wash enough of the grout further downstream that (a) your drain runs quickly again, and (b) it doesn't clog your pipes further down the line where you can't get at it.
This is really a last resort and just delays (or moves) the need for a proper fix...)
Sorry but Tyler Durden is talking pure imaginative theory with no practical substance. Install drainage, which drains to where exactly. Install gravel and sand and put walls on it? Gravel, the roll around stuff? And sand the soft stuff?
Still sound like something you want under your walls? No.
Sure dry stone walling stands the test of time, provided there are zero, and I mean zero side thrust loads applied to the wall, ever. And definitely means no soil.
Mortar helps the wall absorb loads by simultaneously sticking the units together AND holding them apart. Probably the reason the mortar didn't stick (assuming you have proper/suitable mortar) is that your slabs were dusty/dry and the mortar was probably too dry.
To cure: Wash all dust off the slabs with a hosepipe and allow the surface water to soak in (the slab will still look dark/wet). Mix the mortar using enough water to make a smooth, creamy mix that doesn't crumble.
Lay slabs using the nice and creamy mortar and tap into place, remove excess that squeezes out with a trowel and once the mortar has hardened off a little, tool it off with whatever finish you want (half round, struck with a trowel etc). Joint thickness shouldn't be too thin, aim for 10mm, give or take a few mm's either way.
At the end of the days work, cover down with fleece (or old blankets) and a layer of polythene. Keep 'green' mortar covered thus for a week or so.
At least thats how we lay brick/block/concrete stuff in the UK/EU...
Best Answer
If you do it your self (not endorsing, and see comment by The Evil Greebo) you could put a more secure plug in by using hydraulic cement.
To ensure that it does not come out, holes or cracks are usually back cut (the hole is made wider below the opening so that its diameter is greater than the diameter of the opening). This can be done with a small masonry chisel and a small sledge hammer. Start chiseling about 1/2 to 1 inch below the opening and go down about 3/4 to 1 inch deep. You just need to get it a bit wider (1/4 inch greater all around) than the hole.
The hydraulic cement is used like a putty and it expands slightly as it dries to lock it in. Follow the instructions, especially about moistening.
If you are doing this yourself, use a good mask and gloves because there have been harsh chemicals in that hole. Let the chips and dust fall in the hole. Do not vacuum them out!