Concrete – Possible Leak In Concrete

Did the problem just start? Is the condensation on the pipe frozen? If so, this is an indication that the compressor is overworked (possibly low on coolant). If you are seeing any frost, you should turn off the system before the compressor burns out and call an HVAC professional.

Insulation is wrapped around the coolant line to prevent condensation from forming and causing damage. That insulation may have started to fail. If so, replacing it is an easy enough job.

I reccomend you turn off the system for a little while so the coolant line can warm up. Pull off as much of the old insulation as you can and wipe it down to remove any leftover condensation. Then replace it with the tightest-fitting and highest R-value insulation you can find.

When re-insulating, be sure to seal all of of the crevices. If the pipe insulation tubes have an open slit in the side, make sure you seal the slits with insulated tape. If any copper is exposed, it is a point for condensation to form. The coolant line should be completely covered from end to end.

I reccomend that you don't bend the pipe. The coolant pressure is somewhat higher than your generic water supply, and if you damage/crack the line, it won't be pretty.

Let's not over complicate this little project. I have seen these open sump holes hundreds of times. I am absolutely sure there are no structural issues here, how long has the house stood without concrete in the hole? There was probably not a concrete floor when it was built and for many years after. If you want to simply keep stuff out and hide the dirt then let's do it simple. Dig out to about a total of 4 inches below your water pipe and valve. Mix up a small bag of Sacrete concrete mix and fill the hole to about 1 inch under the pipe. Float it smooth, you're done. There is no need to get carried away with a special base etc. The size and weight of the concrete patch is negligible as far as settling or shrinking is concerned. Get the stuff and be done with it in an hour!