Well this is a pretty big deal because we don't know the cause.
First let's go over common reasons we get cracks on new floors.
- Soil wasn't properly compacted. Soil should be compacted with a rock bed on top.
- Bad mixing at site. Especially in the summer contractors pump too much water in the mix. The water makes the concrete weaker and it does crack easier.
- Bad mix at plant. Just a poor mix of materials coming in.
- Bad environment for mix. Too hot, rain, too long to site, whatever.
- They didn't cut the concrete or didn't cut it quick enough. The concrete needs to be cut (I suggest every 10x10 foot area) to allow for expansion. It really needs to be cut the first day.
- Didn't use rebar. This is a common cost cutter and I have seen rebar pulled before pour.
- House was built on unstable land. Could have been a landfill, could have springs underneath, whatever.
- Soil type wasn't conducive to their install method. Really too many things to list here but basically different types of soil expand and contract more due to moisture levels. Also it is possible that it was pushed even further by either a lot of rain or a drought.
Those are what I got off the top of my head. I am positive there are more reasons for cracks in your basement. If I were to totally guess I would say they didn't prep right in that corner - It seems like the corner is dropping on you already and maybe it wasn't floor wasn't compacted correctly. The crack starts on the outward "L corner" which is normal but heads right across the corner - most insignificant cracks in concrete tend to be straight. This crack has its shape for a reason.
What do I think you should do? First ask questions. See if the contractor knows why it cracked. "It happens" is not an answer. My reply would be "Me not paying you happens too." If the contractor/builder doesn't want to take blame (it is their fault) then you need to get a psi reading on the floor, measure its thickness, and also prove that the floor is rebarred/reinforced correctly. You will almost certainly need an engineer. Even if the problem is obvious your builder is less likely to move until it is proved from a creditable source.
You cannot sit on this. If the mix was bad - well did they use the same mix for the walls too? If it was bad prep, what happens when you have issues in a couple years? I have seen basements that have had to be repoured and it is a mess. Also will set you back 10K in the states.
Again, no matter what anyone tells you - cracks in a fresh floor are not acceptable. This is a sizable crack. Even if an engineer checks everything out I would demand a longer warranty on the basement floor and to have them seal it. Either that or they start over.
Note (based on additional pictures: I am not there so it is a bit of conjecture. But it is not a good sign when an area is relatively dry and you have a corner that is not only wet but it seems dropped too. It is a guessing game for me too at this point, not seeing what you have going on. My top 2 guess (and they are guesses) -
#1 - They dug and compacted. While digging they left over dug out that corner and then filled it. Then they never compacted it correctly. After it rained a few times, the corner started dropping. Also when I have a slab compacted the rock is part of the equation. I don't see any rock in your pictures.
#2 - You have some sort of natural underground current or spring. I have a stream that is 3 feet under, about a foot from my house - and I can't imagine if it where a foot over and 2 more feet down.
(Do you have any pictures right before they poured?)
FWIW, that's technically called a "raised patio" rather than a deck. At 40' long, your challenge will be to prevent cracking...so I'd count on putting in expansion joints.
If you want to ensure a solid base, you need to use crushed rock and add it layer-by-layer mechanically compacting each layer before adding the next. That's going to be some work to get up to 12", but certainly doable. You'll likely raise it in 3-4 layers.
At that point, you're essentially building a slab-on-grade foundation. So you shouldn't need any actual foundation walls.
All that said, check with local code first!
Note, however, that if you're ultimately capping with stone, you really don't need all that concrete on top. You need a retaining wall to retain the layers of compacted rock, but you can then place the stone right on top of that on top of a layer of sand.
Best Answer
The fill is not intended to support the new concrete slab indefinitely. It’s merely fill for the initial concrete pour. The fill will settle overtime, regardless of how well it’s compacted.
Therefore, the slab becomes a “structural slab” and the reinforcing steel MUST be placed exactly correct, or it will fail. That is to say, it won’t just crack, but it will crack so severely it will fail.
We all know the reinforcing needs to be on the tension side (bottom) of the slab, but the slab could have “reverse bending” at the edges and the rebar will need to be on the top of the slab. (Occasionally the slab will be designed with the rebar in the center, in order to eliminate the need to transfer the rebar to the opposite side .)
How thick is the slab and how much rebar is called for in each direction?