Does a Split Central AC condenser circuit breaker need to be GFCI protected

Refrigeration equipment may be served from another circuit aside from the kitchen circuits but it is not required.

210.52(B) Small Appliances.

(1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all counter-top outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.

Exception No. 1: In addition to the required receptacles specified by 210.52, switched receptacles supplied from a general-purpose branch circuit as defined in 210.70(A)(1), Exception No. 1, shall be permitted.

Exception No. 2: The receptacle outlet for refrigeration equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater.

As to why it is tripping the breaker, I think you apparently have too much on one circuit and the addition of the mixer put it over the top. A GFCI trips if current is diverted outside the normal circuit path and the breaker trips if the normal circuit is overloaded. You may have had the microwave or another appliance running with the fridge and mixer.

Moving the fridge to its own circuit would make good sense in this case.

Uh-oh. Your voltage (hot to neutral) should not be 130V anywhere except a few countries where 127V is common.

Start by measuring across the two hot "legs" in your panel. This value should be 220-240V, tending toward the latter, e.g. 238V.

Now measure each leg to neutral, these should be very close to half that, and very close to each other, e.g. 118-120V.

If they are not, but the two values add up to the first number, you have a very dangerous condition called a "lost neutral": the two "hots" are good, so 240V machines are happy. But the "neutral" is floating, and voltage on each leg is going to vary all over the map as the loads change, e.g. 171V and 67V, which will cause your appliances to catch fire. If you have this, shut off the main breaker now and unplug everything 120V or 120/240 until you fix it for good.

In light of your dryer error, a more likely possibility is that you have lost a leg of "hot". In this case, all the 120V circuits on that leg will be out, while the ones on the other leg work fine. 240V-only appliances will not work. 120/240 appliance controls may work, but the heaters won't. This is not an emergency in the same way as a lost neutral.

You may be having this problem with your entire house, it may have only appeared first at the pool. I gather your dryer is not at poolside.

The answer for any kind of "lost" wire is to give the panel a thorough take-apart and inspection. Look for loose screws (prticularly on heavy-wire lugs), corroded or arced contacts on breakers, burnt busbar, etc.

If you have a smart meter, good chance the power company can turn it off remotely using their SCADA system with a phone call.

White to green: In a properly wired house to code, with the main breaker off, resistance between neutral and ground should be as close to zero as your meter can detect. Voltage should be zero obviously. However, if any circuit is on, all bets are off. Voltage may be somewhat more than zero (but not more than 6 volts), which will make it impossible to measure resistance.