Probably not load bearing. Looks like roof load is on closet back wall (is that an exterior wall)? To be doubly sure, I always go to attic and look to see if there's any roof trussing sitting on top of the wall you're removing. Measure downstairs for landmarks (for reference points) when you're up there. Good luck, demo is FUN!
No, it is not a bearing wall, but there is a "double stud" (post) required in the wall line to support the "beam that supports the roof" that is in the second floor exterior wall. Very unusual.
This post (double stud) is important because it's noted on the second floor plan too. So, the double stud is to extend up to the roof level and align with the double stud on the first floor level. We don't create a separate structural system (like this double stud system / beam system) we just "up-size" the floor joists to support the second floor loading and the second floor exterior wall load and whatever roof loads too.
First, you'll notice there are parallel walls on each side of the kitchen and dining that align with the second floor (although the second floor is slightly narrower.) This allows all the framing to span from wall to wall and transfer the loads to the foundation. The wall between the kitchen / dining runs perpendicular to the floor joists and roof trusses so it will not be a bearing wall, but has a "double stud" note in it. So, you can remove the WALL but not the POST (double stud).
Second, if you look close, you'll see notes and arrows on the drawings that refer to, "300 x 50 joists". This refers to the size of the joists and the direction the joists are to span. (We Americans never learned the metric system.) As you can see, the floor joists rests on the walls perpendicular to the kitchen / dining wall. So, again, it's not a bearing wall.
Also, it is not a "shear wall". A shear wall is used to keep the building "stiff" and not allow the structure to sway or turn into a parallelogram. I live in a high wind area, as I suspect you do too, and I'm very interested in horizontal thrusts on buildings as well as vertical loads.
You can remove this wall (but not the double stud) and sleep well at nights or not worry when you're out windsurfing.
Note: If you look close at the North East elevation, you'll notice there is no double studs required on the left side of the drawing, only on the right side. Yet, it has the same identical roof structure. (Hmmm...unless there is a vaulted ceiling on the right side. Is there?)
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I had to read your question a few times, but I still don't know how you intend on reinforcing the walls with rebar.
You cannot simply put rebar against the existing walls and cover them with some mortar.
For rebar to be effective, it must be embedded in the proper thickness and rating of concrete for the load. the concrete supports the weight and the rebar helps keep the concrete from failing or displacing. I really think you may need a little on site professional help here. Unless you know how to pour walls, footers etc, you may get in over your head.