I have 138F Johnson Sliding Bypass Door Hardware. I bought two 30 inch solid wood doors, and they are top mount and comes with 4 #12 1-1/4 long screws per door. The door feels like it weighs around 70lbs. Can these 4 screws hold a 70lb door that's top mounted?
Doors – Can this sliding door hardware support solid wood doors
closetdoors
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Ok Kenny, here is the plan. You can remove one Jack stud and door header with a sawzall(cutting between the studs to cut the nails) and some work. You can then replace the jack stud with a 3/4" board cut to 3 1/2" width and the new 3/4" higher height. Put a 3/4" block on top of the remaining jack stud and reinstall the header 2X4. It will still fit between the outside studs and be supported 3/4" higher then before. Obviously, you will have to trim some drywall away to do this, but that can be pieced in and patched fairly easily and if you're careful cutting it before the demo begins. The drywall seam may be covered by the door trim. The result will be a finished opening 3/4 inches wider and taller than you started with. Your new door should slide right in! Good Luck.
There is no reason you cannot have conventional double doors on a closet.
Bracing the Inside Corner
To solve the free corner issue, you can put a small stop, attached to the floor at the center point between the two doors. It needs to be wide enought to stop both doors (probably anything over 1 inch would do) and tall enough to catch the doors at the bottom (3/4 or 1 inch should do, and you want it as short as practical).
The simplist approach is to use ordinary domed door stops screwed into the floor inside the closet. One could probably be placed to catch both doors. These may be prone to a toe stub, but are probably the least likely to cause harm.
If you want to make your own stop, you could use a metal L channel or a wooden block screwed through the top into the floor. Metal is smaller, but may be more prone to hurt if you stub your toe against it. A small wooden block with sloped shoulders might be better. It only needs to be thick enough to hold up (maybe 3/4 inches). All exposed edges sould be slightly rounded with sandpaper to soften the edges for safety.
Latching
The simplist approach to holding the doors closed is to use magnetic latches. You can put them at the top only or at the top and bottom. If you do put them on the bottom, put the latch on the door and the strike plate on the floor stopper (another reason to use a wooden stopper).
As an alternative, you could use a cabinet latch at the top.
Finally, you could use a button type latch set into the tops of each door and the door frame. These are somewhat harder to install, but look more finished.
Handles
In each of these cases, you would use dummy handles or pulls to open the doors.
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Best Answer
As long as it is a solid wood door and not a veneer. Drill the proper sized pilot holes too, so the door rail does not split.
The only thing you may want to be concerned about the screws are is the one on each roller that will go into the end grain of the stile. If it was a longer screw, it would be good insurance. End grain does not hold a screw as well as the grain running perpendicular to the screw. There, a 2 1/2"-3" screw would be well placed. Running it at a slight angle help cross the grain a little too, making it grip better. That trick will not be needed on the other screw.