Doors – How to line / fill the ugly gap around the newly hung shed door
carpentrydoor-framedoors
I have fitted a new door to my shed and as you can see there is a big gap and it looks a bit ugly. How would you recommend I make this look better? Some sort of external trim? Internal door stop?
Thanks!
Best Answer
Part of the "ugly" aspect of your door is that the gap is not uniform. The bottom hinge gap appears much smaller than the top. Correcting that by adding shims to the bottom or re-positioning either or both hinges to accomplish even spacing on that edge.
One can hope that in so doing, the gaps elsewhere will even out. That alone should improve the appearance, perhaps not requiring gap seals.
If the internal door stop refers to a need to prevent the door from turning inward too far, a wooden strip across the door frame, inside the building, hanging down only far enough to contact the closing door will provide an internal door stop of sorts.
From you description, it sounds like you have a hair over 1 1/2 inches of extra space to make up. If this is correct consider this method. Place a full 1x4 (or whatever the depth of the wall may be) on both sides, as long as the new door frame will still fit comfortably in the new opening. When ever possible, I like to mount the hinge side to a solid petition without excessive shims. This makes it more solid without having to bridge a large gap with your finish nails, and makes it a lot easier to perfectly plumb the hinge jam. I often replace the center hinge screw on the jam side with a longer matching screw that will attach to the jam. This does a few things for you. One, you don't need as many nails, gives a much more solid feeling and sounding door, and gives you a tool to fine adjust the plumb if necessary.(especially on heavier solid wood doors. Just like with security screws on an entry door. After you are sure you are happy with the plumb on the hinge side, simply use visual to get an even gap on the top and latch side, in that order. You can then use shims on the latch side and shoot your finish nail just below your shims. this keeps the shims from dropping as you work down the jam. i don't usually shoot through the shims because they often split and I may want to slightly adjust them before the trim casings are installed.
The usual approach is to cut a thin strip of the same jamb and moldings and glue into place.
You can also fill in small spots with an epoxy based product like Bondo or other paste-like filler (would not use it for thicker vertical surfaces since it may slump). It can be carved and sanded like a hard wood.
A combination of these techniques should give you a pretty unnoticeable surface once painted.
Best Answer
Part of the "ugly" aspect of your door is that the gap is not uniform. The bottom hinge gap appears much smaller than the top. Correcting that by adding shims to the bottom or re-positioning either or both hinges to accomplish even spacing on that edge.
One can hope that in so doing, the gaps elsewhere will even out. That alone should improve the appearance, perhaps not requiring gap seals.
If the internal door stop refers to a need to prevent the door from turning inward too far, a wooden strip across the door frame, inside the building, hanging down only far enough to contact the closing door will provide an internal door stop of sorts.