Live in a condo and stacked washer/dryer are in a closet. New w/d installed, but now closet door wont close as w/d stick out 1/2 inch more than old w/d.
There is trim molding around door. Can we nail on another piece of molding on top of existing molding around door and rehinge door again? What is best way to get door to close?
Doors – Laundry closet door wont close
doorsframe
Related Solutions
I'm not sure about ChrisF's suggestion since I've never had that particular problem (with the door rubbing on the hinge side) - is the issue that it's hitting the frame on the hinge side or the doorknob side?
If it's hitting the jamb on the doorknob side (as if the door is now too wide) then the usual solution is to trim down the door. Usually I would run it through a table saw, but you could do it with a circular saw as well if you are really careful.
Just make sure to trim off the knob side rather than the hinge side so you don't have to worry about mortising out new spots for the hinges (and then risk being off on the top of the door)
If the door resists being closed just as it is almost closed, then you certainly have a hinge problem. I've seen a lot of this particular problem in old houses I've lived in, where it is usually caused by excessive paint thickness on the frame and door edges at the hinge side. These faces meet before the hinges are closed, so when you force the door shut you are actually levering the hinge screws out of the wood. (Don't do that!)
You can see whether this is the problem by looking at the side of the door where the hinges are — if the door and the frame touch before the door is shut, then you have this problem. (Since you mention that there is no clearance on the hinge side, I assume this is the case.) In extreme cases, you will see the hinges lift away from the wood as you force the door shut.
You will need to fix things so that the meeting faces of the hinge plates are flush with (or above) the surface of the door and frame, rather than set below the surface (as depicted in the drawing on the right).
Planing the frame (or door) is certainly one way to do that, but I'm not a real DIYer (I just pay attention to the spaces I live in) so I don't have any experience with which to say which is the right solution. I hope I have helped illustrate the problem.
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Best Answer
Trim molding will not hold a standard hinged door. It would take a skilled carpenter to move a hinged door outward.
What part of the machines is preventing them being pushed further back? Could it be simply the dryer vent hose is interfering? Compare the specifications on the machines to the dimensions of your space. Is the washer hitting your back baseboard?
If it is just one projecting area on one machine, consider making a recess in the back wall, if a stud is not in the way (maybe not a good idea if this back wall separates your unit from the adjacent unit).
If you cannot shift the machines further back, either the machines are too large for a standard space for compact w/d or your space is non-standard.
If the former, return the machines as unsuitable for a standard space.
If the latter, remove the hinge pins and remove and properly store the door, but leave the hinges in place so the door could be rehung later. Hang a heavy curtain over the door opening, or install a hanging, sliding "barn door" over the opening.
EDIT My experience with doors is installing six pre-hung interior doors so I can imagine how I would proceed to move the door outward by 1 inch, but it would be a job and I couldn't say how it would look in the end. I suppose a skilled carpenter would make short work of moving the door out, but the end product might still look a little strange.