drywallflooringinsulationleakrepair
Using an infrared thermometer/camera, I found what seems to be a draft coming from beneath a baseboard in the corner of a carpeted room.
I understand that caulking can stop drafts from under baseboards, but I'm wondering if I need to pull back the carpet or remove the baseboards (or do both) to do the job right?
I'm planning to repaint the room and baseboards next week, so I want to try to get the draft fixed first to avoid damaging the newly-painted surfaces.
I don't see any nail-heads or screw-heads in the carpet edge trim, so you probably have one like this:
You might be able to save it, but they're cheap so I'd just replace it with a new one. Pry it up taking care not to damage the door trim. The carpet in the door opening should be loose enough that you can get access to the linoleum underneath (there may be a tack strip across the opening but you should still have a little room to play with). Finish removing the old linoleum flooring, then install the new flooring, gluing it down as you would normally. Remove the old edge trim from the carpet -- I'm familiar with ones that are folded onto the carpet edge to hold it, so just bend it back. Install the new one at the edge of the linoleum. Push the carpet into the new edge trim, making sure it's taut, then bend the trim down to hold the carpet; use a piece of 2x4 cut to the width of the opening so that it bends evenly.
I just wet it with soap and hot water, maybe a few times over the course of a half hour, and then use a wallpaper scraper.
Best Answer
Attempting to put caulking to the wall under the base board with the carpet installed is very likely going to result in caulking spread out onto the carpet - also if you ever have to pull it temporarily - the parts embedded into the caulk will separate from the rest of the carpet. Unfortunately, placing the caulking under the baseboard with the carpet removed also presents a problem; namely dirty, sharp, and possibly rusty pointy carpet grabbing spike heads - ready to puncture your fingers. I would recommend using caulking backer rod. This is a flexible solid foam rope which could be pushed into the gap conforming to the space and sealing off any air penetration.
A more permanent solution would require crawling; If this is an interior wall and access to crawlspace or basement is available I would suggest inspecting the floor for penetrations which could be sealed. If it is an exterior wall check for penetrations through the wall plate (bottom and top) at the perimeter and any exterior penetrations for outlets. horizontal siding is notorious for allowing air to enter walls; without a well sealed vapor barrier under the siding, there is little that can be done without opening the walls.