I don't suppose you have a hammer drill? Tapcons! (my favorite concrete screws, you need 2", maybe 2.25") bushed out with 1" worth of washers. Make sure they're not home first ;) If you fall into a void after drilling into the 'concrete' they're probably cinder-blocks. If you then can't get the screws to bite, make the hole even bigger and use really long toggle bolts. If this is the case be prepared for having to do it both ways as some holes will be into the meat of the block and others into the voids.
There is a ton of information and history out there.
Studs are strong pieces that are the internal structure of your walls. They are covered by some type of material (the "skin") that is what you see when you look at a wall. If you imagine your wall without any type of skin material, there are probably two studs at the left and right edges and definitely two framing members (similar material as studs, but the term studs explicitly refers to the vertical members) going horizontally at the floor and ceiling forming a rectangle. This rectangle has many vertical studs inside of it, usually space at 16" or 24".
A term you'll see sometimes is 16" O.C. which means On Center; it just means the center-line between two studs is 16" apart and there is about 15.25" of air in between them.
Your studs are covered on both sides by something. These days it is typically drywall (sheetrock) which is cheaper and easier to install than most alternatives. Your surface could also be plaster, paneling, tile, etc.
You need to use a stud finder to locate where your studs are because you need to attach heavy objects to studs. Drywall can only support very little weight. To use a stud finder:
- Put masking tape horizontally on your wall.
- Place the stud finder against the wall, holding it vertical.
- Press and hold the button.
- Hold it still for the first half second so it can calibrate itself.
- Move the stud finder horizontally across the wall and mark on the tape where the signal is strong.
- If the signal acts weird, make sure you slide the stud finder sideways at the same height.
- Take a tape measure and try to find a pattern between your marks that is 16" or 24" apart.
- Now you can measure multiples of 16" or 24" and know where other studs are.
You need to determine if your stud are wood or steel because the type of fasteners (screws) you use depend on it.
There are other methods of determining this, but here's one: Figure out where your fasteners are going to go and drill a small pilot hole (smaller than the size of the fastener). If you get about a 1/2" deep and hear a terrible screeching noise followed by your drill bit sliding and having no resistance, you have steel studs. If you get 1" in and you start to see saw dust coming out of your pilot hole and your drill still feels like it's biting at something, you have wood studs.
If you have wood studs, you can use general construction screws (NOT drywall screws). If they are steel, you probably have to use toggle bolts. Toggle bolts are a pain to use, so you can try using self-tapping machine screws with a fine thread first. Make sure your fasteners are long enough.
There are many other types of walls out there so if things don't seem right, maybe they're not typical stud walls.
Best Answer
You need to attach the mount to the concrete, not the drywall.
There are special anchors for concrete. Most are made of metal and expand into the hole drilled in the concrete with a hammer drill and a masonry bit.
Most masonry anchors are sleeve anchors and use bolts (also called machine screws) to expand the anchor.
There are also metal lag shields that use lag bolts (heavy duty screws) to push outward on the hole and hold the device. These are fairly reliable, but are less forgiving if you need to remove and reinsert the bolt.
There are also masonry screws that can hold in concrete without a separate anchor, but these need precise drilling and care when tightening to prevent stripping the hole. While they are fine for things that use numerous attachment points, such as studs in a concrete floor or wall, the risk of failure on a device that only uses a few mounting points make these a bit more risky (in my view - contrary points of view welcome!).
The instructions packed with the mount often recommend which size of bolt or screw to use, and many come packed with mounting hardware for masonry attachment. Drill the size hole called for by the particular anchor, and take care to drill straight and not oversize the holes.