I'm in a 1970 house where the drywall was both nailed and glued to the studs. Whenever I have to replace a panel that runs up against an existing one I have the problem that the extra glue depth, plus the age and years of paint on the old panels, means that the new panel is maybe 2 or 3mm less deep than the old one. Attempting to feather this out seems crazy. Putting something like liquid nails down the back seems wacky as it would require a ton of glue to eventually dry out to 3mm thick and I'm sure all I'd end up with is a lot of popped screw heads over time. Shims maybe… Or do I just resign myself to having to skim 3mm of compound on every board? That feels like too much to be the right solution.
Drywall – Getting new drywall panels aligned to older ones on a wall
drywall
Related Solutions
Go ahead and place the drywall over the top edge of the crown moulding. Sounds like the wall was already re-plastered with it in place. If you tried to remove it, you may end up re-doing the walls as well. Even forgetting that, it's almost impossible to remove moulding without sustaining some loss. Without replacement material available, removal with intents of preservation is extremely risky, especially with stain grade material. You don't want to go there.
If your joists were flat, you'd still only need to shim down the first 4 feet or so along the walls, no one will see the resulting slight slope. Keep this in mind when planning your shims. It doesn't have to be perfectly flat, unless that gives you pleasure. You also don't need to shim to completely fill the gap. An 1/8" gap makes a clean shadow line that is not detrimental (assuming it is perfectly uniform) at all. It also makes finishing easier. The taped joints of drywall are normally not perfectly flat, despite the tapered edges. There is a slight bulge which is usually invisible. But against straight moulding, depending on the profile, this bulge may be visible. You might consider grinding down the edge tapers at the board corners against the wall so the joint tape can be completely buried and the yet the joint against the moulding can still be perfectly flat.
Ooh. this problem is one not easily answered without more info:
Heat Blisters:
- Paint bubbles can show up pretty quickly, from within a few hours to a few days after application. The blisters are only in the top coat of paint and appear most often in oil-based paint. A quick rise in temperature, like sunlight shining directly on the newly painted wood, causes a thin skin to form on the outer surface of the paint. The skin traps inner wet paint that produces vapor when it heats up. The vapor expands and causes the paint to blister from underneath. To repair blisters, scrape them off, smooth the edges, and repaint, being sure to avoid direct sunlight while the coat dries. Experts suggest establishing a painting order that follows the sun around the project. Thick coats and dark colors are more likely to blister than light colors and thinner paint.
Water Blisters:
- Moisture causes problems for paint. Rain, dew, ice, and snow on the outside or vapor and moisture buildup from the inside can cause problems with exterior paint. When moisture penetrates the paint, blisters can form and paint can peel. Moisture blisters, unlike temperature blisters, go through all coats of paint down to the wood. To stop moisture blisters, you must locate the source of the moisture and repair it. Improper construction techniques and lack of flashing can cause outside water to pool at joints, on window sills, frames, or on the end grain of the wood.
Intercoat Peeling
Another type of peeling occurs when a newer coat of paint separates from the coat underneath. An inadequately prepared or dirty surface is one cause for a weak bond. Another is that the two paint layers are incompatible. For example, an oil-based paint may have been applied over a latex-based paint. They are incompatible and can peel away from one another.
Peeling can also occur when too much time has elapsed between applications of the primer coat and the top coat. If more than two weeks separates the primer application and the paint coat, the primer’s surface can begin to break down and prevent proper bonding with the paint. To correct the problem, you must remove the paint and properly clean the surface.
Cross-Grain Cracking or Crazing
Too many layers of paint or one layer that is too thick can result in an interconnected, uneven pattern of cracks. The thick paint is unable to expand and contract with the wood, so breaks result, starting in the outer layers. If the problem is not corrected, moisture enters the paint layers, causing deeper cracking and deterioration.
Surface cracking may require sanding and repainting. Deeper cracks will require a complete removal of the old paint. Once the wood is bare, clean it and treat it with a paintable, water-repellant preservative. Once the preservative has dried, apply a primer and top coat at the recommended spread rates.
Chalking
Some exterior paint has a powdery coating. Chalking comes from the disintegration of the paint resin due to exposure to the sun’s ultraviolet rays. This gradual deterioration is how paint is supposed to age. Too much, however, can cause discoloration of other painted areas below as rain washes off the chalk. It also signals that the paint is rapidly deteriorating.
Chalking was more of a problem with older paints that contained excessive pigment for the amount of binder, but other triggers include the failure to properly prime and seal exterior wood, spreading the paint too thinly, or thinning the paint too much. To correct excessive chalking, the surface must be cleaned and repainted.
Staining
A stain is typically caused by moisture. The most common source is rusting metal nails or anchoring devices in the wood. The second cause is a chemical reaction between moisture and wood, such as red cedar, which results in color buildup on the surface.
Rusty nails can be hand sanded and coated with a rust inhibitor and finish coat. Unless the wood is too fragile or the exposure of the nail head is related to the original construction system, it’s best for nail heads to be countersunk, primed, and filled before painting. Stains from wood extracts need to be cleaned, rinsed, dried, and primed with a stain-blocking primer before applying the finish coat. Check with a knowledgeable local paint retailer for the best cleaning mixture.
Incompatible Paints
- If you are using two incompatible paints. Generally, paint manufacturers like to match primers with top-coats This is more applicable when painting metal surfaces (enamel paints). The reason for this is that there are a few acidic or highly alkaline or soluble salts primers, which could be water based, oil based or acrylic some combinations don't play well!. generally sticking with a certain type is ok i.e water based primer with water based top coat.
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Best Answer
Do not coat the entire face of the drywall with compound to make it thicker. That is really hard to get right and will only serve to frustrate you. The way I see it, there are three options here that I would consider in your situation.
If I have to replace drywall in a room, replace all of the drywall. This is a bit of extra work, but the end result will be really good. Plus, it provides an opportunity to inspect wiring, plumbing, insulation, etc. that is covered by the drywall and repair anything else that needs it in the process. You can also make improvements such as adding outlets or switches.
Shims behind the drywall, which you already mentioned. This is probably the easiest way to get a consistent wall. I would attach the shims to the studs first. Maybe use a table saw to make some thin furring strips which you can glue horizontally across the studs before lifting the drywall into position.
Feather out the edges. The new drywall panels will be slightly inset from the originals, but at least there will not be any hard edges. As long as you are not painting with semigloss and the lighting is kind it should not be noticeable unless you already know to look for it.