Q. Hard lines are the walls on the first floor underneath, joists on the first floor landing run left to right so does that mean the central wall running front to back is 'load bearing'?
If your house is in the UK (which I'm guessing it is), then without a doubt the central wall running from front to back is load-bearing.
Q. Initially I thought of putting 8x2s front to back, supporting them on internal walls where possible. Problem is that the angle of the eaves would not allow me to rest the ends on anything substantial so could I just bolt them to the rafters as long as they were supported by the walls downstairs too?
Refer to this question here on SE, and read all the answers and comments found within.
Running parallel to the existing ceiling joists is the easiest and preferred way to go.
Removing the binders "locally" to allow the new floor joists to pass is "normally" considered acceptable (then connecting/pinning them back to the new joists passing through), though you would want to check such a detail with your local Building Authority before doing so.
Otherwise if you go the other way (perpendicular), you end up going above the existing ceiling joists, which causes a major re-work of the existing wall plate area that sits on the exterior wall and the roof area above.
Q. Then I got thinking that I'd need to go left to right .. a) because the load bearing walls go down the centre of the house and b) because if I don't the ceiling binder will be in the way. Same problem however with regards to getting the joists to sit on the external walls and I'm guessing I'm not allowed to bolt a plate to the chimney wall and hang things off that.
Whatever you do, do not connect anything to the chimney wall. Doing so is an absolute no, no in the UK (if I have your location correct).
Again, refer to this question here on SE, and read all the answers and comments found within.
Of course another option is to remove the existing ceilings (lath and plaster), binders, etc. Leave the existing ceiling joists and install new appropriately sized floor/ceiling joists parallel to the existing, then fix a new plasterboard ceiling to the new joists. Granted, such an option adds considerable mess to the job, and a reasonable cost increase.
Use the garage if you're worried about the floor's capacity. Place the drywall blocks on the floor first (the truck delivering the drywall usually has a bunch of these to protect the drywall and to make it easier to get the lift under the stack). On top of the blocks, put some plastic if you're worried about moisture in the floor. The drywall goes on top of this, so it's off of the ground. And on top of the drywall, you can put more plastic or tarp if the garage isn't weather proof.
Best Answer
Have a look at my answer on this question regarding acoustic foam. You will be able to cut down sound propagation significantly using it, by coating the walls and ceilings of your rooms with the foam.
If you have the capability, you could make a significant difference by mounting the rooms on rubber bushings.
This may be overkill for your purposes, but it is used for recording studios etc. as it dramatically reduces vibration through the walls and floors being transmitted.