concretedrywallgarage
I would like to make my garage wall a bit "smoother". And now I think about using drywall to cover the bare concrete. However the concrete is very uneven with at least 1 inch of concrete sticking out like in the corner below
(Sorry this pic turned side way)
The wall has several "lines" with metal wires sticking out. I could cut the wires but it will be hard to "sand" or cut the concrete.
What are your suggestion? Or should I "frame" 2×2 or something like that with plywood on the outside then?
This was a project I did earlier in 2012. We wanted to install central air conditioning for our new furnace and there was no better place to put the outside unit than on this side of the house. Unfortunately, the pad there was a wedge shape. So I made a form and turned it into a rectangle. Couple hours of work including a trip to Home Depot for concrete.
Determine the depth of your pad - For mine, I used 2x6's to build my form. You should use a material that will determine your depth, ie: a 2x4 for a depth of 3.5 inches
Use screws to connect the wood together - this will make disassembly of the form easier when you're finished.
Mix the concrete per the recommendations on the bag.
If you're concerned about strength, you can use rebar rods or wire mesh inside the pour. Pour half the depth, lay the mesh or rebar, pour the rest.
Make sure the concrete is level or sloped if need be. A 2x4 can be used to do this or a wooden level. Make sure to wash the level when you're done.
Make sure to tamp the concrete down into the corners of the form and into the field of the form. You don't want any air pockets. Use a trowel to help move the concrete around. Use the edge of the trowel to help remove air pockets.
You want a nice flat surface. Use the level or 2x4 that spans from edge to edge to "screed" the surface flat. Use a flat trowel to raise a bit of water to the surface to make it nice and clean.
Let the concrete set per the instructions on the bag - if the weather is colder, give it another day or 2.
Once everything is dry, remove the forms.
Base on your description:
Concrete strength does not appear to be an issue. With a minimal 2500 psi concrete the entire safe could bear on one square inch.
The size of the footing depends on the bearing capacity of the soil. Suppose the soil has a bearing capacity of 20 pounds per square foot. Then the foundation would need to be 25 square feet. Other soil bearing capacities would require larger or smaller minimum footings.
Placing a new foundation near an existing often has substantial engineering implications. The forces overlap on a portion of the soil because the bearing capacity of a soil is a function of it's ability to distribute loads. Consultation with a professional engineer may be in order.
Best Answer
Usually when drywalling over masonry walls you install furring strips. Furring strips are verital strips of wood to which you can attach the drywall (or plywood or whatever you want). You can easily position and / or notch the furring strips so that the face of the strips comes out level. You can use lumber as small as 1x2s, it's also common to use 2x4's. There are also metal furring strips available.
Heavier furring strips are better for attaching shelves etc. Sometimes by the time it's all said and done, you're better off just framing a hollow wall in front of the masonry wall. This way you can leave a little breathing room between the wall and the masonry, and you have a full stud depth for insulation, electrical, etc.