Drywall – How to remove or cover a screw stuck in the drywall

A few additions to Jeff's advice if you decide to replace the damaged drywall.

1. I'd suggest you look into waterproof drywall or mold resistant drywall. There are various products that do a better job than the typical green board that you would use in the bathroom that will help if you are installing in an area that has a lot of exposure to the elements.

2. Double check the thickness of your drywall if you are patching. If you replace a 5/8" with 1/2", you'll notice it.

3. Use screws, especially on the ceiling. They take more time, but hold better and are less likely to cause the nail pops that you are seeing.

That being said, I think it's entirely possible that you're just more aware of drywall issues and there may not be anything wrong. To know for sure, I'd go up to the attic, pull up the insulation where you suspect damage, and look for water rings or other mold growth. Use a flashlight, no need to feel with your hands (and risk falling through). While you're there, check the insulation for blackening that would indicate mold is growing there, and if so, replace any damaged pieces.

Your ability to see the joints between the drywall is just a sign of not enough paint and/or primer. And popped nail heads are normal as a home moves. My personal plan is to replace all the popped nails with screws and double up on the spacing the next time I paint to minimize this issue.

Though you might be able to mud over them, you're looking at 1-2' of mud (feathered) around each screw to make it not noticeable, which basically means you'd be covering the entire piece of drywall with mud. Like pretty much everything in construction, it will be much easier to do it properly now rather than try to fix it later.

If your driver is slipping out, you are probably not using the right bits (or your bit is worn out) or are not pushing hard enough on the drill to prevent the bit from slipping out. Make sure the bit fits well in the screw head: it should not have any room to wiggle in any direction, and should not slide around. #2 Philips is the usual here, but depending on the screw head it may need to be a sharper/longer or blunt tip.

It could also be that your screws are not the right type. If you're going into wood studs, generally you should use coarse thread screws. If you're going into metal studs, it should be fine-threaded screws.

Since the board is also 5/8, it may be that the screws are not long enough. Try longer screws, which should get a better grip on the studs behind so once they start going in, they'll go in as deep as you need.