if the post is within the line of the walls:
![enter image description here](https://i.stack.imgur.com/aL8ji.gif)
Blue is existing, red is nailing strips, green is bulkhead...
You would certainly need to consult a structural engineer and get all plans approved and permitted before beginning work. It will be expensive but since you indicate willingness here goes.... It is completely possible to relocate that post. The question will always be price and design. In my humble opinion the work isn't even all that difficult once you know exactly which material and sizes are required for the load.
That support post is compression support for the visible beam. In order to properly move it you would likely need to add two vertical support beams with a perpendicular cross member to take their place. This member would likely be steel.
That new beam could go below the existing beam (with the existing beam sitting atop it) but depending on the span and the load this would fill in significant headroom and break your clean ceiling line.
Alternatively, depending on the roof structure, you may be able to hang the new beam above the visible beam inside the attic space. This would have the added benefit of not eating interior headroom. You would probably place the vertical beams inside the wall where the bear painting is, and the wall to the left of the sink.
Either approach should work. Neither is significantly complex for a structural engineer. They will both likely be quite expensive to do.
EDIT: So how will they change it? What's involved? If you put the beam below the existing one, then temporary support posts will be constructed on both sides of the existing post. The post would then be removed and a replacement beam jacked in place beneath it.
If the beam is to be "hung" from a new crossmember then the existing post will stay in place while the new posts are built. The beam would be jacked up slightly from both sides, and a steel hanger bracket would be placed under it, fastening it to the new in-ceiling beam. Finally, the existing post is removed.
In both cases a support immediately below the beam, beneath the floor, should give support all the way to foundation which means that you may need to pour in the crawlspace and tie into the existing stem walls.
Best Answer
In light of the new and important information mentioned in the comment below, your best move is to fur out the entire wall just enough to clear the post. You may then want to follow the advice I gave originally.
Original answer:
You can work with that and avoid any sort of bumpout. Just cut a triangular "stud" as large as possible that fits in the available space. Set your circular or table saw to 45 degrees and cut a few sample blocks. Use a straightedge across each wall plane to see what you have room for. You could even hang drywall on one face and then install the stud with screws through the drywall before you add construction adhesive to all contact points.
Ideally you anchor it top and bottom, and even a gob of construction adhesive against the post flanges will do. Even better if you can glue to the drywall and the post itself. As a system it'll be rock solid. Let the adhesive set up for a day before nailing on your corner bead.
If you're wrapping that beam with drywall, install a strip of half inch plywood or OSB under the beam, between the flanges at each end, to get the drywall below the flange and bolt heads.