bracketsdrywallmountmounting
I purchased this wine rack even though I'm skeptical on the strength of the L Brackets.
I do not have studs in my wall but purchased these heavy duty anchors for 3/8 inch drywall.
Any thoughts on whether this will work or not? I've never done this before so am very skeptical. Any other tips or tricks would be super helpful. Thank you!
Get a 12' 2x4 and a 3' to 4' 1x4. Screw the 1x4 at right angles to the 2x4 near one end. The 1x4 should be centered lengthwise on the 2x4 and overhang the end about 1/2". See sketch below. In the sketch I showed screwing the Tee board on the edge of the 2x4 but you may want to screw it to the flat of the 2x4 to get a better screwing to make the 1x4 fairly solid. Use 4 or 5 screws for this.
Cut the total length of the 2x4 to be about 3 to 4 inches longer than the floor to ceiling height. Now you climb the ladder and hold the drywall in place and have another helper hoist the 2x4 up with the cross piece coming up under the piece of drywall. The helper should be able to wedge the 2x4 in place to hold up the drywall until it can be screwed into place. If the wedge wants to kick out on the bottom then it may be necessary to shorten the 2x4 a slight amount.
The power drill you can purchased can be used for installing drywall screws but it can take practice to avoid sinking the screws too far or even all the way through the drywall. I would recommend instead using a hand screwdriver for this small job. Make sure to use proper drywall screws. A common size for this will be 1 5/8" length screws. When installing drywall screws you do not pre-drill the drywall itself. The screws are also very sharp and will not need any pre-drilling into the framing members either. When setting the screws use care to tighten them down just enough so that they dimple the paper and recess a small amount. You do not want to tighten so far that the outer paper layer tears.
It sounds like you want to keep using the existing holes, which by now are quite stripped and loose.
As mentioned in the comments, for a shelf you almost certainly want to fasten it to studs. However it is possible (though not advisable) to have a shallow, light shelf supported by drywall.
So if you are unwilling to mount to studs, consider using heavier-duty Toggle bolts as they stronger are not affected by a warn-out drywall hole. The bolts you linked are one of the weaker kinds and seem to rely on a snug fit. There are even more advanced versions, like the Snaptoggle that boast impressive strength, but most people remain skeptical about those claims.
No matter what fastener you are using, you are ultimately limited by the strength of your drywall. Thicker drywall is stronger, but all drywall will age and weaken over time. A shelf that feels sturdy to begin with may weigh on the drywall and cause it to sag over 10 - 20 years. Environmental factors such as the amount of vibration (from minor Earthquakes or from heavy truck or train traffic near by) will affect the rate of deterioration.
Best Answer
The rack is 28 inches wide. Its bound to be over at least one stud. How did you try to locate? Did you use a good stud finder? Look for hints for where a stud might be, like an electrical outlet below. (electrical boxes are usually mounted on a stud). Also a magnetic stud finder would find nails and screws. I would try again to find at least one stud and attach the rack to that with two screws, and use steel toggle bolts for the other two into drywall.