The short answer: no. Electrical cable needs to be stapled to the side of the studs, halfway between the two walls, to minimize the risk that anyone will nail or screw into the electrical wire and electrocute themselves. Any time an electrical wire or plumbing pipe comes too close to the face of the stud (e.g. if the hole going through the stud weren't centered), you have to install steel safety plates.
For ethernet, you can run it behind the trim or lots of other places without concern.
Protecting the Cable
National Electrical Code 2014
Article 300 Wiring Methods
I. General Requirements
300.4 Protection Against Physical Damage.
(F) Cables and Raceways Installed in Shallow Grooves. Cable- or raceway-type wiring methods installed in a groove, to be covered by wallboard, siding, paneling, carpeting, or similar finish, shall be protected by 1.6 mm (1/16 in.) thick steel plate, sleeve, or equivalent or by not less than 32-mm (11/4-in.) free space for the full length of the groove in which the cable or raceway is installed.
Exception No. 1: Steel plates, sleeves, or the equivalent shall not be required to protect rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.
So you have a couple options.
Free Space
Run the groove deep enough, so that there's 1 1/4" of free space in front of the cable.
Steel Protection
Protect the cable using a 1/16" steel plate, or sleeve. Or install the cable in rigid metal conduit, intermediate metal conduit, rigid nonmetallic conduit, or electrical metallic tubing.
Dividing the Circuits
National Electrical Code 2014
Article 210 Branch Circuits
I. General Provisions
210.11 Branch Circuits Required.
(C) Dwelling Units.
(1) Small-Appliance Branch Circuits. In addition to the number of branch circuits required by other parts of this section, two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits shall be provided for all receptacle outlets specified by 210.52(B).
III. Required Outlets
210.52 Dwelling Unit Receptacle Outlets.
(B) Small Appliances.
(1) Receptacle Outlets Served. In the kitchen, pantry, breakfast room, dining room, or similar area of a dwelling unit, the two or more 20-ampere small-appliance branch circuits required by 210.11(C)(1) shall serve all wall and floor receptacle outlets covered by 210.52(A), all countertop outlets covered by 210.52(C), and receptacle outlets for refrigeration equipment.
Exception No. 2: The receptacle outlet for refrigeration equipment shall be permitted to be supplied from an individual branch circuit rated 15 amperes or greater.
(2) No Other Outlets. The two or more small-appliance branch circuits specified in 210.52(B)(1) shall have no other outlets.
Exception No. 2: Receptacles installed to provide power for supplemental equipment and lighting on gas-fired ranges, ovens, or counter-mounted cooking units.
So as far as your plan for dividing up the circuits, you're spot on.
Best Answer
So, based on the fact that this cable is dead straight I assumed it to be structural - it's clearly under tension to be that straight. Visually, it appears to be galvanized steel, not something electrical, and electrical is not normally tight.
Tie down made sense. Noting a username implying a Florida location, tie down made a LOT of sense. Keeping your frame attached to the foundation helps immensely in hurricane and tornado survivability.
Brief web search for "structural cable tie slab" found what appears to be at least one company making such things. Obviously I'm not associated, and I don't know if there are others.