I don't suppose you have a hammer drill? Tapcons! (my favorite concrete screws, you need 2", maybe 2.25") bushed out with 1" worth of washers. Make sure they're not home first ;) If you fall into a void after drilling into the 'concrete' they're probably cinder-blocks. If you then can't get the screws to bite, make the hole even bigger and use really long toggle bolts. If this is the case be prepared for having to do it both ways as some holes will be into the meat of the block and others into the voids.
Do not use drywall anchors to hang a TV that large on a swivel mount. If it was a mount that didn't have motion, I might say that's acceptable, but not with a swivel mount.
You will need to use wood in some form to add the necessary strength.
Plywood can be attached to the wall studs using 3-1/2" lag bolts with fender washers. To provide a clean finish, the drywall can be cutout and the opening filled with the plywood. Then tape and mud the joints. Sand the surface smooth, prime, and paint. The plywood will be barely noticeable if done right. Be sure to match the plywood thickness to the drywall thickness.
If you do not want to remove any drywall, the plywood can be mounted directly over the drywall. You will need to use at least a 4" lag bolt in this case to account for the extra depth of the drywall. The plywood can be finished with a routed edge, sanded, primed, and painted for a finished look, if desired.
A final option for a truly hidden mount would be to open the wall by removing the drywall. Then install 2"x4" crossbracing between the studs at the correct locations for your TV mount. Replace the drywall, tape and mud the joints, sand, prime, and paint. The bracing is now hidden in the wall and you can attach the mount to the bracing.
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Turns out the hole I drilled was close to a stud which wasn't letting the anchor lay flat against the wall. I sawed off the plastic front bit of the anchor, let the metal anchor fall into the wall, and put up another one but with the wings in a different orientation.