Can I tap in a outlet not being used that is behind a bed and add a outlet behind it outside? Using it for a electric bbq grill. The grill specs are: 110 volt, 60hz, 275w, 5 amp service.
Electrical – add an exterior outlet by tapping an adjacent interior outlet
electrical
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I think for what you want to do:
- temporary short term solution
- you guarantee you will never operate both the dryer and welder at the same time
You could consider building a 220V 30A power strip. Without knowing your welder, I'll list parts from Home Depot that might work but you have to confirm their suitability for your use.
Please review this URL to determine your plug NEMA type. It will probably be NEMA 10-30 or 14-30. Make sure the plugs, receptacles and dryer cord all match.
Note this is for standard 30A dryer. If you need 50A, you will need different receptacles and cord. Probably a range cord. But I assume that since you are currently plugging your welder into your dryer receptacle, 30A will be sufficient.
Raco 2-Gang 42 cu. in. Square Boxes Model # 8257 Internet # 202058366
You should screw this to the wall if possible for safety, as that will reduce stress on the dryer cord.
6 ft.10/4 4-Wire Black Dryer Cord Model # AW20009 Internet # 100672788 Store SKU # 601004
(two) Leviton 30-Amp 2-Pole Flush-Mount Outlet Model # R50-05207-000 Store SKU # 621336
wire, wire nuts, box cover, cord clamp etc.
If your box can be mounted close enough to the existing outlet, you can cut the excess off your dryer or range cord and use that excess wire to connect the two new outlets. This is just a very minor optimization and you might figure it out as you assembled the box but this way, you'll know before you go shopping.
Normally, you can never split a 40A supply to serve two loads rated for a 20A circuit. Except here.
This is an allowed exception for supplying oven/range loads. It's in NEC 220.55, referring to Table 220.55, Note 4:
The branch-circuit load for a counter-mounted cooking unit and not more than two wall-mounted ovens, all supplied from a single branch circuit and located in the same room, shall be calculated by adding the nameplate rating of the individual appliances and treating this total as equivalent to one range.
NEC 220.55 and Table 220.55 also includes some derating (or more accurately, permissive up-rating) that overrides the normal "125% for continuous" derate found in NEC 210.19(A)(1). It appears to be permissive. Speaking of 210.19, ThreePhaseEel points out
210.19(A)(3) Household Ranges and Cooking Appliances. Branch- circuit conductors supplying household ranges, wall-mounted ovens, counter-mounted cooking units, and other household cooking appliances shall have an ampacity not less than the rating of the branch circuit and not less than the maximum load to be served. For ranges of 8 3/4 kW or more rating, the minimum branch-circuit rating shall be 40 amperes.
Exception No. 1: Conductors tapped from a 50-ampere branch circuit supplying electric ranges, wall-mounted electric ovens, and counter-mounted electric cooking units shall have an ampacity of not less than 20 amperes and shall be sufficient for the load to be served. These tap conductors include any conductors that are a part of the leads supplied with the appliance that are smaller than the branch-circuit conductors. The taps shall not be longer than necessary for servicing the appliance.
Exception No. 2: The neutral conductor of a 3-wire branch circuit supplying a household electric range, a wall-mounted oven, or a counter-mounted cooking unit shall be permitted to be smaller than the ungrounded conductors where the maximum demand of a range of 8¾-kW or more rating has been calculated according to Column C of Table 220.55, but such conductor shall have an ampacity of not less than 70 percent of the branch-circuit rating and shall not be smaller than 10 AWG.
This also overrides the 125% rating by saying a 40A breaker can definitely supply two 20A ovens, and saying a 8.75KW-9.6KW oven is allowed on a 40A circuit.
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Best Answer
Generally speaking, this is OK. Bedroom receptacles do not need to be on dedicated circuits, so adding another receptacle to the circuit is not, in and of itself, a problem. But there are a few things to watch out for:
15A vs. 20A?
Your bedroom receptacle might be on a 15A circuit or a 20A circuit. If the electric grill only needs a 15A circuit then there is no problem. However, if it needs a 20A circuit and you only have a 15A circuit available then you need to replace the breaker (usually very easy) but you also need to make sure that all wiring on the circuit is 12 AWG or larger, which is unlikely because if it was then there would have been no reason NOT to have had a 20A breaker in the first place. If any of the wiring is 14 AWG then you can't upgrade to 20A without replacing the wiring. If the circuit has even a few hundred watts of constant use - e.g., a desktop computer - then you may find that the circuit does not have enough capacity to run the electric grill and the usual loads at the same time.
Don't remove the receptacle
You may be tempted to remove the existing receptacle and simply splice the wires in the junction box using wire nuts. Most likely you can't do that because of requirements for, generally speaking, receptacles along every wall. So either pigtail to add new wires for the outside receptacle, or use the second set of screws on the receptacle if not already in use.
GFCI
Bedroom receptacles typically require AFCI (though if it is an older house then they will likely not have AFCI) but do not normally require GFCI protection. Outside receptacles require GFCI. You can replace the breaker with a AFCI/GFCI breaker, replace the bedroom receptacle with a GFCI/receptacle and put the new receptacle wires on the LOAD screws, or install a GFCI/receptacle outside. Installing GFCI outside is the simplest solution, but subjects the GFCI to weather - hot/cold/wet - which shortens the life of the GFCI electronics.
Weather Resistance
An outdoor receptacle should be weather resistant and have an in-use cover.