electricalmultiway-switchremodelingwiring
Box one.
I'm doing a remodel and want to add a fixture to an existing three way, it would be a ton of work to reach the existing fixture or the three way switch that has the power supply in it's box.
My question is can I, or how do I add a fixture off the other switch location.
This is the exiting switch configuration. I want to add a light fixture off the switch on the right.
You can't have one switch operate light OR fan. Many jurisdictions absolutely require that a switch on the wall near a room entrance, control a lamp. That is to benefit house guests and mainly from the government's perspective, first responders. There's an exception to allow a switched outlet instead, presuming a person is going to plug a floor lamp into that. There is no exception to allow a fan/light locally switched at the fan. (such things can exist, they can't be the only light). That said:
They now make gadgets to solve the "I have 14/2 and wish I had 14/3" problem. Each has a smart switch (typically 1-gang) with 2 controls, and a control module which sits under the fan shroud. The switch communicates with the module either via powerline networking or via wireless, and some of those are compatible with smartphones or integrated home-automation systems as are now emerging in the market.
This diagram describes what you want (source), it's just complicated by the box positioning. Normally you do it in a series
I think you can tweak this to make it work.
In Box #1, the incoming hot (the 14-2 black) should connect to the black screw of your switch. Wire the black from the 14-3 to your 14-2 neutral white.
Put your 4 way into Box #2 and wire it as shown in the diagram, but instead of nutting the black wires together, nut the white wire from your fixture (14-2) to one and the black to the other (it doesn't matter which you connect to).
Best Answer
You can't. Not with steam switches.
You will need to switcheroonie over to "smart switches" for this to work.
You will need smart switches that communicate either wirelessly or via powerline signaling. You won't have ANY spare traveler wires.
On the inter-switch 3-way cable, you will reassign all 3 wires to new jobs, which will be obvious.
Both lamp hots get attached to the switched-hot wire.
Both lamp neutrals get attached to neutral obviously.
One of the smart switches attaches to always-hot, switched-hot and neutral.
The other smart-switch attaches to always-hot and neutral.
Often the layout of the 3-way circuit dictates where the master must be - but not this time. You can have the master in either location here.