Your design is dangerous because you don't have safe light fixtures. Outdoor light fixtures, especially at 220V, need to safely insulate all electrical conductors. In an environment full of moisture and active, moving animals, you need fixtures that are secure and sealed. If you can't buy these, maybe you can make some, but don't expect regular indoor fixtures to be safe.
Let's think about how this system gets dangerous. Some of the wiring gets exposed, and a person or animal gets between the hot and neutral legs, completing the circuit. This could happen with two adjacent puddles of water, maybe one touching a hot and the other a neutral. Or a puddle and a rake that's pierced some of your above-ground cabling.
Your "ground" wire doesn't help. Bonding neutral to ground is good because it means that a loose hot wire that touches some exposed metal (or other good conductor bonded to ground) will blow the fuse quickly. You're not in an environment with lots of good conductors; even wet dirt may not conduct well enough to blow the fuse. If you had for example a metal walkway and a nearby metal pipe, you should definitely bond those so they can't be separately energized. But if you're just talking about an electrical system out in a field, bonding the field to neutral doesn't buy you much.
An RCD (residual current device) or GFI (ground fault interruptor) may not help much either, because again you're not likely to leak current to ground. However, these might be a little more sensitive than your fuse so they could help a bit.
The safe approach here is to use proper light fixtures designed for outdoor use in wet areas. These can be low-voltage or high. Low voltage is safer, because even if the fixtures or wiring fails the available energy is not enough to kill you. But a 220V setup that includes sufficient protection for your junctions and the light bulbs would also be relatively safe.
If you stick with your design, at least realize that your ground does not make it any safer. Protect your fixtures and junctions from moisture and from access by people and livestock.
Yes, If you Google "Smart outlets" and similar phrases you will find outlet replacement products that can be used to monitor the power usage of individual outlets.
With the {proprietary product name}, controlling and monitoring the power usage in your home has never been easier.
The {other product name} is the first intelligent plug boasting Air technology.
- Powerful and switchable
- Integrated temperature sensor
- In-built energy and power consumption monitor
I'm not mentioning specific product names here because this isn't an advertising forum and because the actual products available depend on where you are and what year you are reading this.
CNet seem to have reviewed some - only a few do energy monitoring, most are smartphone controlled switches.
Best Answer
No, because of the source.
Generally anything you find on eBay or Amazon Marketplace is from the endless junkstream from Alibaba. These things are firestarters.
There are two things you need.
Must have a UL listing (or other recognized testing lab; not CE)
Equipment used in mains wiring must meet basic quality standards. That is called out on literally the first page of the National Electrical Code, in section 110.2.
In practical terms, that means approved by Underwriter's Laboratories, or a list of other "Nationally Recognized Testing Labs" seen to be of equal reliability: this list is maintained by OSHA. These include CSA, ETL, Intertek, BSI, TUV and a few others.
Notably, the list does NOT include CE, CCC, FCC or ROHS; none of these things are testing labs. These marks are typically used when the Chinese maker can't qualify for an NRTL. They certainly try to make people think CE is a meaningful mark; it's not, except for one context for items shipped from the manufacturer within Europe. Outside that, the mark is certainly fraudulent.
All this is because the device is interacting with mains voltage, and so has the possibility of starting a fire.
Must use according to instructions and labeling
This is in the NEC in the next section, at 110.3(b). The reason is that the testing labs (UL etc.) only test the item for certain uses - those discussed in the instructions and labeling. Using it "off-label" means the item has not been tested for that use.
A related issue is "electronic components" vs "equipment/devices". Equipment makers have the option of using electronic components that have already been UL-certified, which speeds up certification of the equipment. UL calls this component certification "RU" - we call this "Really Useless" (thanks ThreePhaseEel) because the component is simply not rated for direct use in building wiring. And obviously, the labeling and instructions say nothing about using that way.
So your idea of using a module is fine; however you must use a module that is UL-listed for that purpose.