No problem at all.
Power at the switch
If the power feeds into the switch box, you'll simply pigtail the ungrounded "hot" conductor to feed each switch. Then you'll run 14/3 or 12/3 nonmetallic sheathed cable (Type NM); whichever is appropriate, between the switch box and the ceiling outlet. Then connect the white (grounded "neutral") from the feed, to the white (grounded "neutral") to the ceiling box. Connect all the bare/green grounding conductors, and don't forget to ground each switch and the box if it's metal. Connect the black wire from the cable that runs to the ceiling, to one switch, and the red to the other switch.
When you wire up the fan/light. Connect all the grounded "neutral" conductors together. Connect all the bare/green grounding conductors together, and don't forget to attach a lead to the box if it's metal. Then connect one ungrounded conductor to the light, and the other to the fan.
Power at the light
The old way
If the power is at the light, things are slightly more complected. But it's still quite easy. Again you'll need 14/3 or 12/3 cable between the switch and ceiling. You'll still connect all the green/bare conductors together at each place, not forgetting to connect all devices and metal boxes. In the ceiling, connect the white (grounded "neutral") to the white wire from the light and fan. Put a piece of black tape around the white wire from the cable between the boxes, and attach the wire to the ungrounded conductor of the fan or light. Connect the red (ungrounded "hot") conductor from the cable between the boxes, to the ungrounded conductor of the light of fan.
In the switch box, connect the red wire to one of the terminals on one of the switches. Put a black piece of tape on the white wire, and attach it to the other switch. Splice the black wire, and attach a lead to each of the switches.
The new way
If your area has adopted National Electrical Code 2011, you'll be required to have a grounded "neutral" conductor at the switch box. To accomplish this, you'll have to run a 14/4 or 12/4 NM cable between the boxes. Then in the ceiling box, you'll connect all the grounds as before. Connect the white (grounded "neutral") conductor from the light, fan, feeder, and cable between the boxes together. Connect the red wire from the cable between the boxes, to the ungrounded "hot" conductor of the fan or light. Connect the blue wire from the cable between the boxes, to the ungrounded "hot" conductor of the light or fan. Connect the black (ungrounded "hot") conductor from the feeder, to the black wire in the cable between the boxes.
In the switch box, cap the white wire (unless one or both of the switches requires a grounded "neutral" connection). Connect the blue wire to one switch, and the red to the other. Splice the black wire, and connect a lead to each switch.
Best Answer
I would highly recommend going to 20A on the 6 outlets. It means going from 14 to 12, but you'll be able to run more things off those outlets. You can still install 15A outlets, as they can be used on a 20A circuit. Speaking from experience, you'll regret staying at 15A if you start maxing the circuit out (and it doesn't take much these days)
The lights can all stay on the same circuit at 15A, which will make wiring your switches up cheaper (don't forget to add a neutral in your switches!). Most lights do not draw that much (especially if you go LED).