Is there a way to trip a breaker, or otherwise kill the connection to an appliance during a power outage that doesn't automatically turn back on when power is restored?
Background: home in the north that runs a well pump that I may not be at for a week at a time. Heater is on all winter (set to 50 deg), but if the power goes out, the temps will drop well below freezing. The water in the pipes will cause an issue when the power kicks back on and warms up the house if a pipe burst. An "issue" will turn into a complete disaster if the well pump turns back on and feeds the pipes until I show up to turn it off. So, I'd like the well pump's power to be automatically killed during a power outage and only turn it on manually when I can get to the house to inspect, even if the power to the main has been restored.
Best Answer
If your HVAC situation permits it...
The ability to have a source of heat that works during a power outage is a massive asset, especially if power outages are a serious concern (as they typically are on the long overhead feeds found in rural areas). Either a wall furnace (Empire-style) or a gas fireplace can be used; either way, you'll want a sealed combustion version that draws its combustion air from a dedicated outdoor source to avoid any potential issues with backdrafting, CO, and the likes.
Dealing with the original problem, though
However, not all folk are in a position to have heat that works during a power outage, either due to a lack of fuel (gas) service to their location, or due to limitations of their existing HVAC systems. Given this and a couple of assumptions about your well pump, namely that it is a single-phase, 230V unit of 2HP or less and uses a 2-wire start system with a direct-operating pressure switch control, we can solve this problem quite simply and relatively cheaply (under $100) with a few fairly basic industrial-control type parts:
This all gets wired up as follows, or as per the diagram below (which omits grounds for clarity's sake), once you attach the box to a suitable wall surface (note that most control station enclosures don't support being flush-mounted inside a wall in a finished space, as they're designed for industrial use), mount the relay to one of the 1/2" KOs using a locknut, fit the switch through the hole in the front of the box, and feed the incoming and outgoing cables through the remaining knockout(s) using cable clamps:
This all forms what is known as a stick circuit, using the relay to provide a memory of power failure in the following fashion: