Condensation is definitely a concern in colder weather. If you create a thermal break that isn't properly sealed against air leakage, warm air from the house will seep behind the walls, bringing lots and lots of moisture with it. Meanwhile the bricks, which are now insulated, are going to be very very cold, and when warm air gets cold it lets go of its moisture - and thus we get condensation.
That condensation would then get trapped inside the walls - and long before you have a problem with brick deterioration you're going to have mold issues that lead to health issues.
The best thing to do to prevent this is to insulate with a substance that also serves as a vapor barrier, which will prevent any air (and thus any moisture) from leaking into the closed cavity. The best product for this IMO is spray foam insulation, because it fills in all the nooks and crannies and IS the vapor barrier.
Alternatively, you could use fiberglass and cover it over with plastic to form a vapor barrier, and this can work IF you properly seal it all the way around the edges, seams and any holes that occur.
Either approach, however, is going to require you to sacrifice living space, as for a proper thermal break you're going to probably want at least 4" of insulation.
Now - with regard to insulating your spare rooms. Don't insulate your interior walls. Put proper insulation in the external walls of those rooms, so that they don't lose heat to the outside. Yes you will be heating them, but if they're properly insulated they're not going to cost much to heat and there are numerous other concerns with turning an inside room into a "cold" room - it's a finished space, after all, and you don't want to risk damaging that by letting it be freezing cold in there.
It doesn't sound like a short. It happens after five minutes... each time. To me it also sounds like loose wiring or a bad breaker. I would turn the circuit off and than I would visually inspect the back of the receptacle first. Are the screws tight? Any burnt looking wires anywhere in the box?
Than if that is good I would switch that breaker out for a breaker that works. If it holds, you know your breaker needs to be replaced.
You must have confidence in knowing you know how to turn off circuits to do this. If you are uncomfortable, just call an electrician. I am sure it won't take them that long to figure it out. You could even have a breaker at home for them ready (and return it to a store- if they will let you- if he does not need it.)
Best Answer
First, make sure the "hammering" you are experiencing is not the clutch, doing what it is designed to do.
It is not uncommon for the switching mechanism from drill to hammer-drill to break and stop functioning properly. Whether it is worth repairing depends, Bosch sells different grades of tools. A professional grade Bosch hammer drill might be worth repairing, a consumer grade one would not. To even get a quote on repair cost you have to pay to ship it to an authorized repair center (or find one and take it there).
Consumer grade Bosch hammer-drills sell for as cheap as $60 (U.S.) at discount hardware stores, your repair price would likely be equal to or higher than that.