With wiring that old the best and EASIEST thing to do is abandon all existing electrical in the bathroom (or complete area of renovation) and replace it, from point A to point B, as if it were new construction. It would be crazy to have the walls opened up and not do so.
- It would be best for point A to be a new circuit run from the panel.
- 2nd best is tapping the exiting circuit before it enters the renovation area in an attic, basement, crawlspace or a light or receptacle in another room making that your point A.
- If you must, tap the existing circuit where it 1st enters the renovation area making that your point A.
The 1st device in your new wire run should be a GFCI receptacle that's installed properly to protect the remainder of the circuit. BTW a GFCI doesn't require a ground wire to make the circuit safer. (If you're getting shocked from hot to neutral a GFCI won't help you, but if you're getting shocked from hot to something grounded it will, regardless of whether there's a ground wire or not.)
Don't ever splice outside of a box even if that box will not otherwise be used and have to have a blank cover, and whether you use the old circuit or not, don't forget to maintain that circuit if it happens to be continuing on (passing through) to supply another part of the house.
First things first -- commingling service and non-service conductors in an auxiliary gutter is unwise, despite being Code-legal, so you were right to correct that situation.
Second, the grounding electrode conductor (and water system bonding termination) connecting into the meter pan grounding busbar is almost OK even though no separate EGC is routed from the meter pan to the service disconnects, as it falls under 250.64(D)(3):
(3) Common Location. A grounding electrode conductor
shall be connected in a wireway or other accessible enclosure on the supply side of the disconnecting means to·one
or more of the following, as applicable:
(1) Grounded service conductor(s)
(2) Equipment grounding conductor installed with the
feeder
(3) Supply-side bonding jumper
The connection shall be made with exothermic welding or
a connector listed as grounding and bonding equipment. The
grounding electrode conductor shall be sized in accordance
with 250.66 based on the service-entrance or feeder conductor(s) at the common location where the connection is made.
My prime concern here would be that that ground busbar may not be accessible due to the utility seals on the meter pan -- if that part of the meter pan is customer accessible though, then that's not an issue.
Third, the gutter bonding arrangement follows 250.80 and 250.92, so that's hunky-dory, except for the fact that the 6AWG copper wire used is one size too small -- 4AWG is the correct size system bonding jumper as per table 250.102(C)(1).
Finally, the bond conductor between the gutter bonding point and the service disconnecting means is...redundant. 250.92(B)(1) calls for service equipment enclosures to be bonded to the grounded conductor using a Code-compliant means, and the green screw in your service disconnect enclosure's neutral bar certainly qualifies!
So, you can remove the redundant (and undersized) bonding jumpers in the auxiliary gutter, as well as the existing gutter bonding jumper, and use a length of 4AWG bare copper to bond the gutter to an accessible point on the grounded conductor (such as the existing meter pan grounding busbar) as per option 1 in your drawings. If the existing meter pan grounding busbar is indeed inaccessible, then the grounding electrode (GEC) and water system bonding conductors will need to be replaced with longer ones that can be run into the auxiliary gutter, as that's where a grounding tap for this stuff will need to be installed, connecting the service neutral to the GEC, water system bond, and gutter.
Your Option 2, however, probably won't fly -- the use of a separate bonding conductor alongside the service conductors might get dinged by the AHJ as a 250.92(B) violation, and is a waste of copper anyhow! (In fact, a cleaner solution than Option 2 would be to remove the dang PVC nipples and replace them with rigid metallic ones fitted using listed bonding-type locknuts.)
As to your updated plan, that appears mostly correct -- 4AWG is big enough for the job as per table 250.66, while the bond of the grounded neutral conductor to the meter pan is in accordance with 250.80 and 250.92. However, I would route the grounding wires for the CATV and telephone systems directly to the gutter grounding and bonding busbar, using it as your intersystem bonding termination as well. This treats the auxiliary gutter as "an enclosure for service equipment" for the sake of 250.94 and eliminates the need to make irreversible compression-type or exothermically welded taps on the new grounding electrode conductor. Finally, I would remove the existing grounding electrode conductor and water system bonding conductor to avoid inadvertently paralleling the neutral and possibly causing stray currents in the water piping or grounding electrode systems.
Best Answer
You don't need to ground a hamster run, either.
Suppose you had a hamster habitat. And instead of fiber optic, you were using this EMT to extend the hamster habitat to an outdoor maze. Would this habitat run require grounding *solely due to using EMT as a building material? Of course not. That would be silly.
Well, as far as NEC is concerned, fiber-optic cable that has no DC wires running it counts the same as a hamster. It simply does not count for anything at all, and is completely out of its jurisdiction.
The only time fiber-optic cable is in NEC's jurisdiction is when you intermix it in a conduit with electrical wires. But even then, they consider it disregardable if there is nothing metallic in it.