Electrical – fixture switch wiring

electricalswitchwiring

I (stupidly) interpreted from the word-less IKEA light fixture instructions that the fixtures (2) had their own on/off switch. As a result, I wired power to 2 fixture boxes, wired up the fixtures, turned the power on, and realized the fixtures actually have their own dimmer switch, but not on/off. I was stuck with lights that were always on!

Question: is this drawing the correct way to fix my issue – for both lights to be controlled by 1 switch?

Much appreciated!!!

drawing

Best Answer

You're almost there! Simply run a /3 cable instead of the /2 to the switch; this lets you run the switched hot using the cable's red wire, freeing up its white to be connected to neutral at the fixture end and capped off at the switch end. This is required for future use as per NEC 404.2(C):

(C) Switches Controlling Lighting Loads. The grounded circuit conductor for the controlled lighting circuit shall be provided at the location where switches control lighting loads that are supplied by a grounded general-purpose branch circuit for other than the following:

(1) Where conductors enter the box enclosing the switch through a raceway, provided that the raceway is large enough for all contained conductors, including a grounded conductor

(2) Where the box enclosing the switch is accessible for the installation of an additional or replacement cable without removing finish materials

(3) Where snap switches with integral enclosures comply with 300.15(E)

(4) Where a switch does not serve a habitable room or bathroom

(5) Where multiple switch locations control the same lighting load such that the entire floor area of the room or space is visible from the single or combined switch locations

(6) Where lighting in the area is controlled by automatic means

(7) Where a switch controls a receptacle load

Informational Note: The provision for a (future) grounded conductor is to complete a circuit path for electronic lighting control devices.

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