GFCI receptacles have two sets of contacts, line
, and load
. The Line
side of the receptacle is used to power the device, while the load
side is used to power other devices down the line. Any device connected to the load
side of a GFCI receptacle, will be protected by the GFCI receptacle.
For example, if you have a setup like this (which I assume you have).
There is no need to have a GFCI receptacle as the second receptacle, since it will already be protected by the first GFCI receptacle. Because of this, if the first device trips all devices on the load
side will not be powered (as you have noticed).
You can use pigtails to connect the receptacles like this.
But in a setup like this, you'll be required to have a GFCI receptacle at both outlets. The devices down stream are no longer protected by the first GFCI receptacle, because they are not fed by the load
side of the device.
FYI:
This is what it would look like if the receptacles were wired in series.
Ground-fault circuit interruption (GFCI) receptacles, are not wired the same as regular duplex receptacles. In a standard duplex receptacle, both receptacles and all terminals are directly connected together (Unless modified). If one half of the receptacle is powered, then the other half is as well. With a GFCI receptacle there are LINE side terminals and LOAD side terminals, which are separated by an internal switching mechanism.
The wires feeding the circuit are connected to the LINE terminals, which supplies power to the device. If everything is wired correctly, there are not ground-faults, and the device is not tripped, then electricity is allowed to flow to the receptacles on the device and to the LOAD terminals. So if everything is functioning as it should, there should be be power at both the LINE and LOAD terminals. However, if the GFCI device is tripped, there will only be power at the LINE terminals.
Resetting the GFCI
If the GFCI has tripped, it can usually be reset simply by pressing the RESET button. If you press the RESET button and don't feel/hear a click and/or the button doesn't stay in, it means there is a problem and the internal mechanism is not allowing the GFCI to be reset. You can try pressing the TEST button, then pressing the RESET button again making sure you press the RESET button all the way in. If the device still will not reset, you'll have to try and determine the reason.
Why won't a GFCI device reset?
There are three reasons a GFCI device will not reset.
Wiring is wrong
If the GFCI device is not wired properly (LINE and LOAD reversed, hot and neutral reversed, etc.), the device will not allow a reset.
There is a ground-fault
Obviously, if there is a ground fault, the device will trip as soon as you try to reset it.
There is a problem with the device
If the device has gone bad, it will (should) not reset. Some devices will continue to hold, even if there is something wrong internally. However once they trip, they cannot be reset. Other devices will trip as soon as something internal dies, and will not reset. This is why monthly testing is suggested. If you press the TEST button, and then are unable to reset the device. You'll be made aware of a problem sooner, and can have it repaired (hopefully) before any damage is done.
Rewiring a new device
Before you begin, turn off the power at the fuse/breaker box and make sure it's off.
Locate the supply wire pair
There should be an ungrounded (hot) and grounded (neutral) conductor pair (likely as part of a cable assembly), that supplies power to the circuit. As it sounds like you've already located these, I won't go into detail as to how to locate them here (there are many other answers on the site that explain this procedure).
Terminate the supply wire pair
- Connect the bare/green grounding conductor to the green grounding screw on the receptacle (and to the box if required), and to any other bare/green grounding conductors.
- Connect the (white) grounded (neutral) conductor to the silver colored screw terminal labeled LINE on the device.
- Connect the (black) ungrounded (hot) conductor to the brass colored screw terminal labeled LINE on the device.
Terminate load side wires
If there are devices downstream that require GFCI protection, you'll have to connect the wires feeding those devices to the LOAD side terminals on the device.
- Connect the bare/green grounding conductor to the grounding conductors in the box.
- Connect the (white) grounded (neutral) conductor to the silver screw terminal labeled LOAD on the device.
- Connect the (black) ungrounded (hot) conductor to the brass screw terminal labeled LOAD on the device.
Set the device
Once all the wires are connected, install the device in the box using the mounting screws. Install the face plate, and turn the power back on.
- Press the RESET button.
- You should have power to both receptacles, and any downstream devices.
- Press the TEST button.
- You should no longer have power at the receptacles, or any downstream devices.
- Press the RESET button again.
- Power should be restored to the receptacles, and downstream devices.
Best Answer
How to ignore the problem
A GFCI device of any kind, even the kind that looks like a receptacle, is able to provide GFCI protection to other loads beside itself. It has a couple of output terminals called the
LOAD
terminals, and anything attached toLOAD
will get GFCI protection also. This is an efficent way to use GFCI devices, but only for people who actually treat electrical maintenance seriously and have a healthy fear of it.For others, you get this situation.
Others are discussing how you can use multiple GFCI+receptacle devices to separate one receptacle's problems from another's, by tactical use of the
LOAD
terminals (or rather, tactical disuse). It's straightforward enough; just leave the warning tape on theLOAD
terminals and pigtail everything ontoLINE
. Once you do that, only things plugged into a GFCI+receptacele can trip that GFCI.How to fix the problem
A GFCI has one job. What is it? Detecting ground faults: Cases where electrical insulation is not tight anymore, and the appliance is leaking current in a way that could shock you or start a fire. So if something trips a GFCI, what is most likely to be? Right.
One of your appliances has a ground fault.
This news tends to be disliked. We've had flame wars with askers who were in full military denial. If you're not interested in that...
It is a process of narrowing down. An appliance may have a ground fault, but it can't trip a GFCI if it's not plugged in. So unplug all the appliances that have been plugged into those GFCI protected sockets for the last 10 years. See if the problem goes away. Once a day, plug one back in and see if the problem returns.
Here's a useful tidbit: a 2-prong appliance can't trip GFCIs unless it can reach ground somehow - sitting in a puddle of water that often leaks from the sink, a cable modem through the TV cable shield, or a plumbed coffeemaker through the water in the supply pipe.
For a big machine like a refrigerator, run an extension cord to a receptacle on a different circuit, solely for temporarily testing. Ideally that other circuit is also GFCI, so you get the double confirmation of a) the kitchen stops tripping and b) the other circuit does trip.
Once you find the culprit appliance, you can take a swing at giving it a good clean-up... But realistically, into the trash it goes. This is an age of throwaway appliances.
Don't be surprised if it's your refrigerator. That's common, and here's the thing: Refrigerators don't belong on GFCI. Refrigerators are the exact opposite of the use-case for GFCI: a grounded machine with all the electrical bits shielded by all metal, in the back bottom where you could not possibly access them, and you aren't going to drop it in your sink. I have seen cases where the fridge was the last outlet on the kitchen countertop chain, and as a result every single kitchen countertop outlet needed its own GFCI+receptacle, with
LOAD
terminals not used at all. If a fridge has a 10ma ground fault, I really do not care. It's not going to threaten anyone but the ground wire.